Low Porosity Might Be the Real Reason Your Curly Hair Is So Dry
Curly hair girls know that figuring out what kind of hair care your hair needs is way more complicated than figuring out your hair’s moisture level or even your hair type and curl pattern, especially if you’re in the process of transitioning to your natural hair texture. But did you know that no matter the number of nourishing creams, oils, butters, and pomades you’re layering on (yes, even coconut oil, jojoba oil, grapeseed, and shea butter), your hair could be rejecting all that much-needed moisture? If your strands are constantly dry and no product seems to whip them into shape, you might have low porosity hair.
Meet the Expert
Deontae is a celebrity hairstylist based in Atlanta. His clients include Nicki Minaj and Teyana Taylor.
Stephanie Brown is a colorist at IGK Salons in New York City. She has worked with Kate McKinnon.
First things first: What is low porosity hair?
“The structure of low porosity hair doesn’t easily allow moisture to be absorbed into your hair shaft,” says hairstylist Deontae. Essentially, the hair cuticle (its outermost layer) is more closed than that of someone with high porosity hair, and water molecules aren’t able to penetrate through it. Don’t worry though—you haven’t done anything wrong. “Usually, if you have low porosity hair, it’s due to genetic factors,” says Deontae.
One big tell that you have a low porosity hair type: When you shower, the water droplets tend to bead off of your hair, rather than absorb into it. Colorist Stephanie Brown also says you may struggle with successfully using moisturizing products. “It might seem like conditioners don’t work, you always use masks instead of conditioner, or you feel like you have buildup in your hair from all the moisturizing products you feel you need to use,” she says.
How to find out your porosity level
Aside from whipping out a microscope, how can you know your hair porosity for certain? Well, you actually have a few options for fairly accurate at-home experiments. For a strand test (sometimes called the float test), you’ll need a few strands of hair from your comb or brush, and a cup of water. “Drop the strands into the cup and let them sit for two to four minutes,” says Deontae. “If your hair floats, you likely have low porosity. If it sinks, you have high porosity.”
“Another way to tell is by taking a strand of hair and running your fingers from the bottom of the strand to your scalp,” says Brown. “If you have low porosity, the shaft should be smooth with no bumps, but also dense and hard.” Still not sure? Spritz your hair with a water mist and watch to see if beads form or roll off. If they roll off, your hair's porosity is probably low.
How to care for low porosity hair
A few easy tweaks to your routine and the right hair products can make all the difference when it comes to this hair type. Three words for you: moisturize, moisturize. moisturize. Stretch time between your wash days as much as possible. “Wash weekly or every two weeks to give your hair as much time to absorb moisture as possible,” says Deontae. “Also, use a deep conditioner at least once a month.” In between, try a leave-in conditioner. And on wash day, Brown recommends using a clarifying shampoo to remove any product buildup that may be blocking moisturizing ingredients from your deep conditioning treatments from absorbing into your hair strands.
Also, it’s time to make nice with warmth and humidity. “I don’t usually like recommending a hot shower; however, for low porosity hair, the steam will help open the cuticle layer of your hair,” says Brown. “After you wash and condition, make sure to do a cool rinse to close the cuticle and keep the moisture in.” Using a steam cap, or even just a shower cap while you sleep, can also be a highly effective treatment for healthy hair and even help prevent excess frizz when styling.
Finally, don’t hit the sheets without wrapping your strands up in a satin or silk scarf, or at least using a satin pillowcase. The material is much less absorbent than cotton, so your hair’s moisture will stay exactly where it’s supposed to.
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