If you’re an Asian beauty with creaseless lids, this one’s for you. Want to learn how to create a sexy smoky eye, crush your cat-eye, or apply false lashes like a pro? Any TikTok, YouTube, or simple social media search will surely yield loads of step-by-step eye makeup tutorials. But while there’s no shortage of makeup tips and tricks on the internet, it’s obvious that not every how-to is “one-size-fits-all.” And if you’ve got monolids, that couldn’t be more true. After all, we don’t all have the same eye shape, so why should we all use the same techniques? When it comes to creaseless lids, we know that blending out your eyeshadow is easier said than done, and getting creative with your eye makeup looks can take some tweaking. The happy truth? It’s totally doable. We talked to two makeup pros for the best tips and tricks for applying makeup on Asian eyes.
Craving a visual? Click below for easy makeup hacks for monolids by Los Angeles-based professional makeup artist, Ruby Vo.
Alyna Ajere is a makeup artist based in Los Angeles.
CiCi Chang is a makeup artist based in New York City and founder of C.omak Makeup.
Monolids are uniquely beautiful in the way that they don’t have a pronounced crease. Because of this, it’s not uncommon for eyeshadow, liner, and mascara to smudge and transfer onto the upper part of the lid. The first step in applying eye makeup to Asian eyes? Proper prep work. If you want your eye makeup to stay in place, you cannot skip this step. Monolids are prone to smudging, so make sure to prep your lashes and lid,” says Alyna Ajere, a celebrity makeup artist who has worked with Jamie Chung.
How do you prep? CiCi Chang, a makeup artist based in NYC recommends one of two types of bases. “Choose an eye primer that is suitable for you or a concealer instead. Once you apply the primer or concealer, apply a little bit of loose powder,” Chang recommends. This will help set your look to last.Try THRIVE CAUSEMETICS Eye Lift 360° Waterproof Primer™ to lock in your look and make your eyeshadow pop.
Because of their nature, creaseless eyes can tend to be on the oily side (another cause for smudging and smearing). Before you apply your primer or concealer, dab your lids with a blotting sheet first to help minimize oil and smudging.
“Asian eyes can sometimes look a bit puffy after applying some eyeshadows, so I suggest choosing matte finish and powder formulas and avoiding overly creamy products,” Chang says. For shimmer and liquid formulas, Chang recommends placing them strategically. “Use shimmer or light liquid eyeshadow on the inner corners or underneath the lower lash-line. You can also apply a bit on the center of the eyelid. It adds dimensions to the eyes and makes them pop,” she says.
Chances are if you’re working with Asian eyes you’ve spent a long time believing eyeliner was the only way to glam up your eyes, but Ajere says it’s time to stop shying away from bold hues. “Don’t be afraid to try new colors,” says Ajere. “Working with Jamie Chung, we have both learned that just because you have a monolid doesn’t mean you should be afraid to try color.” So pick up your eyeshadow palette and get ready to try a new application technique. “I always tell my clients that eyeshadow is something that takes time to learn and achieve,” says Ajere.
When it comes to applying eyeliner, the trick to mastering the monolid is all about keeping your eyes open. “To create a blended look, some visibility is needed,” says Ajere. By doing so, you’ll be more in control of the final outcome. This is especially handy when you’re applying liquid eyeliner. Unsure how to apply eyeliner? “Use a freestanding mirror. Slightly hold your lid up and sweep across your tight line. This will give the effect of a fuller lash line and a more polished look.” We love the TARTE tarteist™ Double Take Eyeliner in Black because it gives you two options: One end is a liquid liner, while the other is a clay-infused gel liner. It’s also waterproof, which is clutch when mastering your makeup look. “Liners should be waterproof,” says Ajere. This ensures your makeup will stay put, which is very necessary (especially when black eyeliner is at play).
Want to give creaseless eyes a wide, doe-eyed look? Chang suggests avoiding extra thick lines (they can make the eyes look smaller). Instead focus tighter lines elsewhere. “First, draw liner across your entire waterline. Then, finish by drawing a second line from the middle to the outer corner of your upper eye,” says Chang (she recommends Kiss Me Eyeliner, which is made with Asian skin in mind). To help set your liner in place, “use a small brush, pick up a similar color eyeshadow and apply it on top to set it,” Chang adds.
Even if you skip out on eyeshadow you can still play with dimension and color—just do it on the flip side with a boldly lined waterline. With Chung, Ajere crafted a gorgeous green look for the 2020 Golden Globes. “We collaborated on a great look that incorporated an emerald-green jewel tone liner,” says Ajere. “Instead of applying it on the top lid, we thought why not make her bottom lid pop more?” While her top lid was bare (save for a beautiful wispy lash), her lower lash line popped thanks to the emerald green hues.
When it comes to monolids, everything you’ve heard about blending shadows upwards and outwards goes out the window. To create a perfectly blended smokey eye makeup look, Chang suggests building the drama horizontally, not vertically. “For creaseless eyes, you can make your eyes look longer by emphasizing the outer corners instead of applying colors on top of the crease. We still need to layer and blend colors, but instead of applying them vertically like a normal smoky eye, focus the layering from left to the right, (a.k.a. horizontal layering), and most importantly, on the outer corner,” Chang tells us.
If you want to create depth and dimension with your eye shadow, opt for an ombré effect using a variety of hues and your eyeshadow brush. “The ombré technique is a way to use multiple colors to achieve a softer, more natural look that you can build on,” says Ajere. To do so, start at the lash line with your darkest hue and work up to lighter shades and then blend, blend, blend. “Start darker at the lash line and build up toward the brow, using lighter colors to create the effect,” says Ajere. “Darker shades add more depth to the eye and softer shadows help to scope the eye.”
If you aren’t into the ombré effect, here’s another way to play with dimension and enhance your eyes. “With a monolid your goal is to make your eyes appear bigger, so always extending the eye shadow outwards with a more triangular shape helps to give the illusion of a bigger eye,” says Ajere. You can also opt for the triangle technique when creating a smoky eye: just remember to always apply the darkest color closest to the lash line. “To define a monolid you have to use the effect of illusion,” says Ajere. “I tend to use lighter peach, pink, and taupe tones. Just make sure you use a very soft tone on a monolid and darkness at the lash line.”
Enhancing your natural lashes will take your entire look to the next level, which is why you need the right eyelash curler that can keep up with your routine. “Accentuating the lashes helps to give you that extra pop after applying a great eyeshadow look,” says Ajere. We especially love the TOK BEAUTY Curl Talk Eyelash Curler because it will allow you to get up close and personal with your lash line without pinching your eyelids (if you have monolids, you can definitely relate). “For straighter lashes, I always recommend warming the lash curler up a little bit under a blow dryer,” says Ajere. Clamp down and curl before you apply mascara without worry—and get ready to take your lashes from stick-straight to seriously va-va-voom.
While an eyelash curler can transform your natural lashes, for added oomph you can also opt for false eyelashes–but opt for a lighter set that won’t weigh down your lid. “My go-to lash is by Ardell,” says Ajere. “You really want to stay away from the heavier-weighted lashes. The heavier lashes will consume the lid and actually make your lids look smaller.” This is especially true for hooded eyes. “We prefer more natural looks, so when it comes to false lashes, we choose soft and wispy or naturally thick,” Chang adds. “First measure the right length of the lash to match your eye, leave the first quarter untouched (your inner corner). Start from the middle and finish towards the outer corner,” Chang recommends.
Celebrate your beautiful eye shape with techniques that enhance your natural beauty, and show us your glam look! Upload a pic on Twitter or Instagram and be sure to tag us @IPSY so we can see your gorgeous glam. We can’t wait to draw more inspo from your flawless makeup ideas.
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