An Expert Explains Everything You Need to Know About Charcoal for Hair

So What Is Charcoal, Exactly?

Charcoal is essentially a byproduct that results from burning carbon-rich materials, like wood and coconut shells. When exposed to high temperatures in an oxygen-free setting, the now-activated charcoal powder becomes a highly porous material with potent absorption qualities. 

The odorless black powder can be found in medical settings for drug overdoses and poisoning treatment, DIY recipes, and potent cleansers that help remove excess buildup and sebum. “Companies claim that charcoal’s known absorbent properties can attract and bind to toxins and chemicals, as well as to excess oils,” says LoGerfo. However, LoGerfo is quick to point out that many of activated charcoal’s detoxing claims are still anecdotal as there is limited science-backed research to support such claims. 

What Are the Benefits of Charcoal for Hair?

You may have initially encountered charcoal products in skincare through cleansers, physical exfoliants, or face masks, but it now maintains a steady presence in hair care. According to LoGerfo, charcoal is promoted as having extraordinary oil adsorbing properties (the adhesion of particles to a surface).  “Because of its micro-pores, charcoal can adsorb a considerable amount of oil, letting the oil molecules attach themselves to the particles of charcoal,” explains LoGerfo. But activated charcoal comes with a slew of other potential benefits as well.

• Absorbs Impurities 

Oily scalp? Charcoal might be able to help with that. “With charcoal’s adsorptive nature, it is theorized to be useful in taking up excess sebum, making your hair feel less greasy and weighed down. It also could feel cleaner and fresher,” says LoGerfo. It’s why you’ll often find charcoal in products aimed at tackling oil, like dry shampoo and deep clean shampoos. Activated charcoal may also be beneficial in maintaining hair color by eliminating the impurities that can dull your hair’s vibrancy.

• Reduces Buildup 

Though sebum is your body’s natural moisturizer, it can also act like a magnet for dirt and environmental pollutants and “is a way for bacteria, fungi, and yeast to breed off, multiply, and irritate the scalp,” LoGerfo tells us, adding that this scenario could cause or exacerbate seborrheic dermatitis or irritant dermatitis. Charcoal-based hair products can help target excess sebum and thus help relieve the painful inflammation and flaky residue associated with certain scalp conditions. 

• Volumizes

“Hypothetically, by eliminating excess oil and product buildup as well as environmental debris, charcoal could potentially make your hair feel more lightweight and voluminous,” LoGerfo theorizes. “This has the potential to be significant for those with thin, fine, or limp hair.”

Are There Downsides to Using Charcoal for Hair?

When introducing any new product or ingredient into your hair care routine, it’s important to know the hair types and environments where it can be most beneficial, or potentially harmful. LoGerfo notes that charcoal’s absorption qualities that make it so helpful for oily hair and scalps can have negative effects on dry hair, dry scalps, and hair that’s color-treated or permed. “If you have very dry, damaged, chemically impaired hair I would be more cautious using charcoal hair products as they may dry out the hair even more. The same could be said for curly hair that is drier,” says LoGerfo. Additionally, the dark pigment of charcoal has the potential to temporarily stain lighter hair shades. If you’re worried about potential sensitivities, it’s best to consult a professional before you bring charcoal into your personal routine. 

How to Use Charcoal for Your Hair

Charcoal is typically seen as an intermittent treatment by way of shampoos, conditioners, hair masks, or scalp scrubs, rather than a part of your daily maintenance. “I would recommend using these products once or twice a week and alternate them with other shampoos, conditioners, or hair care products (I like to switch on and off),” LoGerfo says. 

Exfoliate With Scalp Scrubs

Many charcoal-infused products feature a gritty texture that can be particularly beneficial as a physical exfoliant when massaged into the scalp. Beloved by many, BRIOGEO HAIR CARE has become well known for their micro-exfoliating charcoal formulas, like the Scalp Revival™ Charcoal + Coconut Oil Micro-Exfoliating Shampoo, which features Binchotan charcoal to help slough away dead skin cells and clear hair follicle blockages, promoting a healthier hair growth environment. 

Clarify with a Detox Treatment

For a gentler way to rid your scalp from impurities, non-exfoliating charcoal treatments can be a more approachable option for sensitive scalps. When used as a targeted treatment, charcoal-infused formulas are applied directly to the scalp like a serum. BRIOGEO HAIR CARE’s Scalp Revival™ Charcoal + Tea Tree Scalp Treatment Drops is a popular leave-in treatment that both detoxifies and adds hydration to the scalp at bedtime or before shampooing. Similarly, rinse-out charcoal detox treatments like the GLOSS MODERNE Clean Luxury Detoxifying Treatment can be used to thoroughly cleanse the hair and scalp before additional treatments that deposit moisture or color. 

Freshen Up With Dry Shampoo

To get in on charcoal’s superior oil-absorbing properties, opt for a dry shampoo that contains charcoal to help revive greasy hair between washes. The addition of charcoal in IGK HAIR First Class Charcoal Detox Dry Shampoo helps eliminate excess oil and smells (think of it like deodorant for your hair), which not only helps add volume to limp, greasy hair but also helps extend the freshness of your style.  

What’s the Difference? Charcoal, Activated Charcoal, and Bintochan Charcoal

While charcoal and activated charcoal are chemically identical, their physical composition is what sets them apart. Charcoal as a basic form is most used as a fuel source which, when exposed to extremely high temperatures, becomes “activated” charcoal. This process creates a larger, and much more porous, surface area that is more effective at attracting and trapping molecules—like oil, dirt, debris, and heavy metals.

While these forms of charcoal are commonly created with wood and coconut shells, Bintochan charcoal is made exclusively from the Japanese ubame oak tree. It’s created by slowly burning the ubame oak materials at low temperatures for weeks at a time, resulting in the highest grade of activated charcoal at 95% carbon. 

Final Thoughts

Activated charcoal has become a widely used mainstay in hair-care products because of its ability to attract excess oil, sebum, and pollutants that may potentially lead to poor hair and scalp conditions. Though it can be used safely on many hair types, there are still potential drawbacks to using charcoal-infused products—like exacerbating scalp dryness, brittle hair, or causing irritation. It is also lacking significant research to back up its anecdotal claims of detoxification or purification. But when in doubt, speak to a dermatologist to find out whether using charcoal for hair is right for you.