The Official Guide To Curly Hair: How To ID Your Curl Type & Style Your Curls
Think the same products and styling technique can be applied to all types of curly hair? Guess again. Girls with curls know all too well that the term “curly hair” is nothing more than a blanket term. While you may not know your exact hair type, it’s obvious that you can’t try to style loose waves the same way you would style tightly coiled curls. In order to bring out the best in your hair it’s crucial to know what you’re working with before you start loading up on hair products.
“Knowing your curl type plays a big part in the success of your hair styles and the health of your hair,” says Kim Kimble, celebrity hairstylist and founder of the Kim Kimble Signature Collection. Once you properly ID your tresses, you’ll know what to reach for to maintain the health of your curls–and your hairstyle. “It prevents you from using products that are either too heavy or not moisturizing enough for your hair, which leads to easier styling and your styles lasting longer,” says Kimble.
About the Experts:
Kim Kimble is a celebrity hairstylist known for creating iconic looks, from Beyonce’s amazing style to slaying Shakira’s hair at the Super Bowl. She is also the founder of the Kim Kimble Signature Collection, a range that reflects Kim’s 30 years of experience and covers a variety of hair types.
Stacey Ciceron is a celebrity stylist, textured hair expert, and Oribe brand ambassador.
From beachy waves to coily tresses, we’re breaking down all the different curly hair types you may have, how to style your curls, and the right products to use if you want to keep your curls healthy. Consider this the only guide you’ll ever need for curly hair.
What are the different curl types?
Type 2A
Wavy, fine hair that makes a slight “S” in shape. This is the most relaxed type of wave.
Type 2B
More wavy than 2A, waves form throughout the hair, starting at the crown, and create an “S” shape. Hair is frizzier (especially on the crown).
Type 2C
The waviest type of hair that features both waves and curls. It’s more coarse than 2A and 2B.
Type 3A
Curly hair that forms an “S” shape. Curls are as wide as a piece of sidewalk chalk, are springy, and well-defined.
Type 3B
Hair is made up of tighter, more voluminous curls, which have the circumference of a Sharpie marker.
Type 3C
Tight curls or corkscrew curls that are as wide as a pencil or straw. Type 3C hair is more dense and more coarse than Type 2 or 3.
Type 4A
Coiled hair that has a well-defined curl and makes an “S” pattern. These spiral curls are about as wide as a crochet needle. All Type 4 hair is coily and densely packed.
Type 4B
Unlike the defined curls in “S” shaped hair, 4B hair has a less defined curl pattern and makes a “Z” shape, as hair zig-zags and features sharp bends and angles. These tightly coiled strands are very dense, feel wiry to touch, and are less moisturized than 4A curls. “Kinky, z-shaped curls have no real curl definition and look a little more like a crimp,” says Stacey Ciceron, celebrity stylist and Oribe brand ambassador.
Type 4C
Hair texture is tightly coiled (like all Type 4 hair), and ranges from fine to coarse and wiry. As dense as 4B, these curls have less definition. 4C hair contains the least amount of moisture and is the most delicate.
How can you tell your curl type?
Unsure how to properly ID your curls? Take a look in the mirror. For the majority, hair will fall in one of six categories: “Straight, wavy, curly, kinky, coily, or super coily,” says Ciceron. You can also use a curl chart, like the one above. Most “range on a scale from 1 to 4, with 1 being the straightest and 4C being the tightest coil,” says Ciceron. The higher the number, the tighter the curls.
Before you compare your hair to a curl chart, make sure it isn’t manipulated by products or styling techniques. “You can only see your true, natural curl pattern when it’s wet or air-dried and in its natural state, not when it’s relaxed or stretched out,” advises Ciceron.
When you’re identifying your curls, you want to focus on two factors: curl pattern and hair texture. “You can have fine 4C hair or coarse 3A hair,” says Ciceron. To properly identify the texture, look at the size of the individual strand. “It’s visually based on the diameter,” says Ciceron.
Think you might be working with a few different types of curls? You aren’t alone. While certain characteristics define different types of curls, it’s also possible that you have a variety of hair types on your head. “You can definitely be in between curl types,” says Kimble, using herself as an example. “My hair is 4A in the middle, but 3C around the edges,” she says.
Styling tips for your curl type:
Before we get to how to style curly hair, there’s one universal rule you’ll want to remember, regardless of your type of curl: styling starts at the sink. When you shampoo and condition your hair you aren’t just cleaning your tresses; you’re also restoring moisture and protecting your strands. “Curly or highly textured hair is already naturally very dry and predisposed to dryness, because oils are unable to travel down the strands,” says Ciceron, who recommends using a gentle cleansing shampoo. “This will prevent the hair’s natural oils from being stripped away and can help maintain a moisture balance.”
When in doubt, reach for a sulfate-free shampoo to achieve the best results when styling. “Shampoos with sulfates can be extremely harsh and dry out the hair. In addition to using sulfate free shampoos, like my Curl Defining Shampoo, co-washing in between regular washes can help keep the hair from drying out,” says Kimble. If you’re not sure where to start, you can check out our list on the 10 best sulfate-free shampoos. Keep in mind that the further down the chart your hair falls, the more moisture it will need, so opt for a hydrating shampoo.
Styling Type 2A-2C hair (AKA wavy hair):
Want to work your waves? Apply some product when your hair is sopping wet, and then let it dry naturally. “Start with Oribe Priming Lotion Leave-In Conditioning Detangler to prep and scrunch with Oribe Curl Gloss Hydration & Hold to enhance the curl,” says Ciceron. Type 2A hair lacks volume and definition, so using a lightweight serum, spray, or mousse will help you define your curls, like the AVEDA be curly™ curl enhancing hair spray. Apply product in the shower, right before you get out, and comb it through using your fingers to prevent your hair from fizzing. While air drying will help you achieve the best results, it’s not always an option if you’re trying to get out the door. “If you do have some time constraints, you can diffuse or sit under a hooded dryer with medium heat and no manipulation,” says Ciceron. For 2A or 2B hair, Ciceron recommends scrunching the roots with your hands to add volume.
Styling Type 3A-3C Hair (AKA curly hair):
When styling these curls you’ll want to target two culprits: dehydration and frizz. To do so, use a leave-in conditioner and a curl milk, curl mousse, or lightweight curl cream, depending on the texture of your hair. “Curly hair is mostly looking for moisture and definition, which can be achieved by treating the hair often and using products and tools to enhance curl definition,” says Ciceron. Squeeze excess water from your curls and apply a leave-in conditioner, like the IGK HAIR Thirsty GirlCoconut Milk Leave In Conditioner. Rake your fingers through your hair, starting halfway down the hair shaft to the ends before the roots. Go over your hair with a wide-toothed comb to ensure the conditioner is evenly distributed.
Next, you’ll want to reach for a curl-enhancing mousse, milk or styling cream that will moisturize and keep frizzy hair at bay. If you aren’t sure which product is right for you, try one of these editor-approved curl creams. Apply a dollop of product (about the size of a golf ball) between your hands and work through your hair with your fingers. Once the product is evenly distributed, you can create more definition by twirling tiny sections around your finger when your hair is damp to enhance your curls. “For a tighter S-shape curl, you can style in a wash-go or a stretch style like a braid-out to enhance the shape,” says Ciceron.
When styling 3B or 3C type hair, you’ll also want to add a hair oil to your routine after applying the detangler and curl-enhancing product, which will seal the cuticle and lock in hydration as your tendrils dry. Rub a drop the size of a nickel between your palms and use the clapping method to smooth it downwards, gliding from root to tip. For 3B hair, a lightweight oil will do. For 3C hair, reach for a mid-to-heavy oil (like coconut oil).
You can also try scrunching your curls. Although many believe scrunching is a surefire way to attract frizz, if done properly it can help you achieve perfect coils. When your hair is very wet turn your head to the side and gently scrunch your curls towards your scalp, working in sections. If you have coarse texture you can work a hair oil through your hair as you scrunch for an extra shot of moisture and shine. Once you’ve finished scrunching you can either let your hair air dry, diffuse it on low-heat once it’s damp, or plop your curls with a shirt. “Similar to wavy hair, s-shaped curls work best when you let the hair dry naturally,” says Kimble.
Styling Type 4A-4B Hair (AKA coily hair or kinky hair):
If you have coily hair, adding moisture is key to protect your tresses. “Tightly coiled hair is visually deceiving. Most people think it’s strong and coarse, but it’s actually dry and fragile,” says Ciceron. That’s because the strands have the fewest cuticle layers to protect it from dryness. If you have Type 4 hair, you’ll want to add moisture, avoid tangles, and fight off shrinkage. To do so, reach for three key products: a leave-in conditioner, oil, and cream. “Look for products that provide a lot of moisture, protection, and nourishment,” says Ciceron. After all, hydrated hair = happy hair. When your hair is wet, work a nourishing leave-in conditioner, like the BRIOGEO HAIR CARE Curl Charisma™ Rice Amino + Avocado Leave-In Defining Crème, through your tresses using your fingers. Next, coat your strands with a layer of oil, (look for products that contain jojoba oil, coconut oil, or Jamaican black castor oil). Coat your hands in oil and gently scrunch it into your curls, thoroughly coating every strand. Be sure to massage some oil into your roots and hairline.
For 4A type hair, reach for either a curl cream or a lightweight gel to define your curls. Apply a quarter-sized dollop on your hands and finger-rake through wet hair, focusing on your hairline, ends, and the nape of your neck. Finger-coil small sections until your coils are defined.
For 4B type hair, you can finish your style with an oil-based serum, like the EVA NYC Get Glossed! Hair Serum. A hair serum is traditionally thicker than a hair oil.
Styling Type 4C Hair (AKA super coily hair):
Definition is key for styling 4C hair. “Do a wet set, like twist-outs or braid-outs, to stretch the hair and create a defined curl pattern,” says Ciceron. Rather than styling hair when it’s wet, begin your routine on dry hair to prevent shrinkage. Once your hair is slightly picked out, you’ll follow the same routine: leave-in conditioner, oil, and cream. Rake leave-in conditioner through your hair, working in small sections and saturating the strands from root to tip. Once you’ve applied the conditioner, coat your tresses with a layer of oil. If your hair is color-treated or damaged, it’s typically more porous, so a thick oil, like castor oil or olive oil, works well. Rub a palmful of oil between your hands and smooth it over your hair, working in sections. Once you’ve finished with a section, reach for a Denman brush to gently detangle and ensure the oil is evenly distributed. Next, reach for an emollient-rich twisting cream that will hydrate and define your coils as you create twist-outs. Rake a dollop of cream through small sections, creating a two-strand twist in each section. Continue raking the cream and creating two-strand twists until complete. Let hair air-dry overnight, covering your tresses with a satin bonnet when you sleep, and unwind each twist, starting with the bottom sections, until you’ve completely separated all the pieces. Other styles Kimble recommends include, “Flexi rods, curly buns, and finger curls.”
If you find yourself perusing the hair care aisle and you’re still stumped, remember this golden rule: the looser the curl, the lighter the styling product. “With looser curl types, you want to use lighter gels and mousses and the hair typically doesn't require as much manipulation,” says Kimble. Using lightweight products will also ensure your tresses don’t get weighed down. Tighter curls, on the other hand, will need heavier styling products. “Curl defining creams will help separate the curls and add more definition to your styles, and kinky, z-shaped curls work best with heavier creams and pomades,” says Kimble.
Whether you’re working with loose waves or tight coils, this comprehensive guide is all you need to define your curls and prep and style your tresses, thanks to expert tips and the best products for curly hair.
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