Fine vs. Thin Hair: Here’s What You Should Know About the Often-Confused Hair Types

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By Dahvi Shira
Published on February 8, 2023
A closeup photo of a model looking at her hair
A closeup photo of a model looking at her hair

Does your high pony fall flat with no bounce? Do your top knots look like tiny, literal knots you’d tie with a string? These probably aren’t your ideal hair looks, and they can also be a sign that you have fine or thin hair. But did you know the two often-confused hair types are in fact quite different? While both can lead to similar outcomes when styling your strands (and they both blow dry quickly), they are not built the same. One involves hair loss, while the other is more about the density of each individual strand. One is more prone to breakage, while the other is centered around hair follicles and hair thinning.

To break down the difference between fine vs. thin hair, we reached out to two longtime experts in the hair field. Thanks to these veteran hairstylists, you’ll be on your way to healthy hair with a hair care routine you can easily follow using hair products designed for your hair type. Everyone has hair needs. Regardless of long hair, thick hair, coarse hair, thin hair or curly hair, we all have a type of hair that calls for special care. It’s frustrating when you can’t style your hair texture or length the way your friends do, but rest assured, no one has perfect strands. The best hair comes from the best care. Yes, much like skincare for our face, hair care is equally important for our scalp and strands. Sometimes that can involve supplements or medication like minoxidil, or using mousse, dry shampoo, gels, or other styling products. A number of factors contribute to hair growth and styling in a way that’s most flattering for your natural hair.

Keep reading for everything you need to know about fine vs. thin hair!

Meet the Expert

Judy Crown is a veteran hairstylist, who has worked on some of the biggest TV shows in history. She recently won the Vanguard Award at the MUAHS (Make-Up Artists and Hair Stylists) Awards. 

Josée Norman is an Emmy Award-winning hairstylist who recently won the Lifetime Achievement Award at the MUAHS Awards.

What Is Fine Hair?

Simply put, “Fine hair is when each hair is very thin,” says veteran hairstylist Judy Crown. “So you can have a lot of hair, but it can be very fine. It looks like cotton candy on some people.” Despite its lack of density, fine hair tends to be easy to work with. Emmy Award-winning hairstylist Josée Normand adds that fine hair can also be more prone to frizziness when the cuticle is open. 

What Is Thin Hair?

When it comes to thin hair, Normand says there are actual gaps in the hair growth at your scalp. “When you see someone balding, they have thin hair. Thin hair can be temporary or caused by a medical condition such as stress, childbirth, or illness, so it’s good to find out why your hair is thinning in the first place.”

Crown adds, “Sometimes thinning hair is hereditary, but sometimes it has to do with diet. You need to have lots of collagen and protein in your diet because it helps you retain your hair and can even help you grow more of it.”

Do I Have Fine Hair or Is It Actually Thin?

Do you notice your hair seems fragile or easily breakable? That’s a sign of fine hair. “There’s a lot of hair, but it looks like it’s lacking volume since the texture itself is fine,” Normand says. “It’s delicate and gets more easily damaged, especially when using hot tools. You must use a heat protectant.” 

Thin hair, on the other hand “is when there are literally less strands growing out of your head,” Normand says, with Crown adding, “Thin hair is when you don’t have enough hair to pull off certain hairstyles or if you see men with pattern baldness.” 

How to Care for Fine Hair vs. Thin Hair

For starters, go easy on conditioner if you have fine hair. “Conditioner makes it heavier, and lighter hair is easier to work with,” Norman says. If you have thin hair, be mindful of your diet and lifestyle. Stress and other external factors can come into play, and heredity can also be a factor. It’s always a good idea to check with your doctor if you notice thinning. Rest assured, there are many ways to gain your thickness back or get it going to begin with. 

How to Style Fine Hair 

Use water.

There are actually flat irons with infusable water options—and if you have fine hair, this would be your best bet. “Water is especially useful if you’re using an iron because it holds the look better,” Norman says. 

Take it slow when styling.

While coarse hair can handle more aggressive styling, you’ll want to relax with fine hair. “Try not to over brush and be gentle,” Norman says. “If you’re going for a voluminous look with fine hair, try foam rollers as opposed to a curling iron so you’re more gentle and not using too much heat. If you’re using hot tools in general, use lower heat.”

Have fun with it.

Crown actually enjoys styling fine hair, and encourages anyone with this hair type to feel confident when doing so. “You can do whatever you want to it, no problem,” she says. “You don’t necessarily need a lot of product or as many tools because you’re starting off with enough hair and you can create any kind of look with it. You can go sleek or full volume, unlike with thin hair where there’s sometimes just not enough of it to do certain hairstyles.”

How to Style Thin Hair 

Apply product generously.

With fine hair, you don’t need to worry too much about product, but the opposite is true for thin hair. “The product makes each hair shaft feel thicker, giving the illusion that you have more hair,” Crown explains. “Then using more hair spray always helps.” 

Cut with care.

With thin hair, not every haircut will be easy to style, so you’ll want to be mindful of your next chop. “In many cases, if you want to make it look thicker, you cut it into layers so you can curl it and give it more substance,” Crown says. 

Use hair care designed for your hair type.

Shampoos and conditioners designed for thin hair are generally more lightweight and can add additional volume and movement, says Crown. Regardless of what you opt for, specifically look for what caters to your needs.

Whether you have thin hair, fine hair, or none of the above, grab all the beauty goods by getting in on the IPSY Glam Bag fun. Take our Beauty Quiz now to get started. Already a member? Refer your friends to earn points, which you can use toward products. Either way, don’t forget to check us out on Instagram and TikTok @IPSY.

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