Glycolic Acid Peels Are Magic for Sun Damage and Hyperpigmentation—But Are They Right for You?
If you've heard of glycolic acid in skincare, it's probably because of the ingredient’s major exfoliation powers. Glycolic acid is often found in cleansers, serums, and facial pads to help slough off dead skin cells—but did you know that it does so much more than that when applied at the right concentration? Yup, we’re talking about chemical peels. We chatted with Hadley King, MD, a board-certified dermatologist in NYC who specializes in medical and cosmetic dermatology, all about this powerful alpha hydroxy acid that’s used to minimize fine lines and reduce the appearance of sun damage and sun spots. Glycolic acid is legit, for sure—but it doesn’t come without a few side effects, as is often the case with skincare ingredients. Here’s everything you need to know to find out if a glycolic acid peel is right for your skin type, plus deets about a few of our favorite at-home glycolic peels for more gentle results over time.
Meet the Expert
Hadley King, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist in NYC who specializes in medical and cosmetic dermatology. She is also a clinical instructor of dermatology at the Weill Medical College of Cornell University.
What is glycolic acid?
Glycolic acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) used for chemical exfoliation of the skin. “AHAs dissolve the bonds that hold dull, dead skin cells on the surface of the skin so the skin will gently shed, revealing smoother, brighter skin underneath,” explains Dr. King. “AHAs are water soluble and work on the surface of the skin, in contrast to BHAs, which are oil-soluble so they can penetrate into pores so they are able to work on the surface of the skin as well as inside the pore.” That means AHAs—such as glycolic acid and lactic acid—are generally preferred for normal-to-dry, sun-damaged skin. According to Dr. King, AHAs have been proven to be effective in reducing the appearance of sun damage, which is great news if you spend your summers laying out in the sun.
What can I expect during a glycolic acid peel?
“First, the skin will be prepped, which will include a cleansing step—often with acetone,” says Dr. King. “Then the peel will be applied.” She says that depending on the strength of the glycolic acid, you may experience stinging or a hot sensation. To help offset this sensation, your dermatologist might fan your skin. Then, “Additional layers may be applied for a stronger effect, and there may also be additional peel booster ingredients applied,” continues Dr. King. Don’t worry, the stinging should calm down after a few minutes—and if it doesn’t, be sure to speak up so your dermatologist can adjust your treatment and prescribe the right at-home skincare regimen.
What are the skin benefits?
If you’re dealing with hyperpigmentation (such as melasma), fine lines, skin tone irregularities, acne scars, or sun damage, you could seriously benefit from a glycolic peel. “Glycolic acid has been shown to be effective in reducing the appearance of sun damage,” says Dr King. “It can thicken the skin, increase cell turnover, stimulate collagen production and improve tone and texture. Studies have shown, for example, that six months of topical glycolic acid stimulated a 27% increase in epidermal thickness.” Whoa.
Who is a glycolic peel best for?
Dr. King recommends glycolic peels for those with normal-to-dry skin who are dealing with hyperpigmentation and sun damage. AHAs (again, those are glycolic acid and lactic acid) have proven to be effective in reducing the appearance of sun damage. On the flip side, BHAs, such as salicylic acid, are great for those with oily, acne-prone skin types and those with clogged pores.
“BHAs can help reduce blackheads, whiteheads, pimples, and milia,” says Dr. King. “BHAs also have anti-inflammatory, skin-calming properties so they are gentle enough even for sensitive skin prone to redness and/or rosacea. Very sensitive skin may find glycolic acid irritating.” If you have sun damage but are worried your skin is too sensitive for a chemical peel, talk to your dermatologist about what kind of treatment would be best for your skin type.
Are there any side effects?
Plan to be pretty red after a chemical peel, especially a glycolic peel. “During the days after a peel, it is normal to experience irritation, redness, and flaking,” says Dr. King. You’ve got two options here: Book your treatment at the end of the day so you can head home until your skin has calmed down—or totally own the temporary state of your complexion (there’s nothing to be ashamed of, after all!). It’s really up to you.
4 at-home glycolic acid peels to try
A professional glycolic acid peel is much stronger than an at-home treatment, but both are effective in different ways. At-home chemical peels yield results over time, while in-clinic peels (like glycolic acid peels) show results within just a day. “In a clinical setting, doctors generally use a glycolic acid peel that is 40–50% glycolic acid,” explains Dr. King. If you want to go big, she recommends you start out with a 10–20% solution of glycolic acid with a pH of 2.8–3.0 until you know how your skin is going to react. Another option is to try a more gentle at-home treatment—like one of our favorites below.
1. PIXI BY PETRA Glow Peel Pads
These single-use pads contain glycolic acid to gently slough off dead skin cells to reveal fresh skin beneath. They’re that easy—just swipe and go! And the best part? They contain ingredients that will ensure that the exfoliating action won’t dry out your skin. We’re talking about rose water, aloe vera, and vitamin E to soothe, soften, and hydrate for that lit-from-within glow that is major #skingoals.
2. DERMA E Deluxe Overnight Peel
For powerful exfoliation while you sleep, this overnight peel uses a blend of glycolic sugar cane and fruit acids. It’s safe for even sensitive skin types because it uses 5% alpha hydroxy acids to gently remove dead skin cells. Plus, it’s vegan, cruelty-free, paraben-free, sulfate-free, mineral oil-free, lanolin-free, gluten-free, and GMO-free (yup—you can feel good about using it), so it’s much less likely to irritate your skin.
3. M-61 BY BLUEMERCURY PowerGlow Peel
Not only does this one-minute peel contain glycolic acid, it also features salicylic acid for both its AHA and BHA exfoliating powers. In just 60 seconds, this peel will help reduce the appearance of pores, fine lines and uneven skin tone—but that’s not all. The addition of antioxidant-rich bilberry extract helps promote even skin tone, while chamomile and lavender calm and soothe any irritation the chemical exfoliation may cause. Sooo...what doesn’t this baby do?
4. FIRST AID BEAUTY Facial Radiance Pads
These facial pads use both lactic and glycolic acids (two AHAs!) to exfoliate, tone, and brighten skin. Your entire face will feel less textured and more even after just a few uses. Plus, cucumber and Indian gooseberry help tone, while lemon peel and licorice root give your skin that coveted glow.
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