When it comes to building a skincare routine, introducing acids can seem seriously intimidating–especially when there are so many different types to choose from. From exfoliating to clearing acne and minimizing wrinkles, acids can seriously work magic in your skincare routine–it all comes down to selecting the right one for the task at hand.
All acids fall into two groups: alpha hydroxy acid (AHAs) and beta hydroxy acids (BHAs). While BHAs are praised for their anti-inflammatory properties, which makes them a great choice for treating acne-prone skin, AHAs are known to be more gentle and skin-soothing, making them a great entry-level point if you’ve never used acid before. Not sure where to start? We’re here to break down the difference between two of the most popular acids found in skincare products: glycolic acid and salicylic acid.
Meet the Expert
Jessie Cheung, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist and the founder of Cheung Aesthetics & Wellness, which has locations in Illinois and New York.
Hadley King, MD, is a New York City-based board-certified dermatologist.
What is Glycolic Acid?
Glycolic acid is an alpha hydroxy acid that’s naturally found in beets, pineapples, and sugar cane. “Glycolic acid is commonly found in topical skincare products [as an exfoliant] to gently dissolve away the outermost dead skin cells to reveal fresh, glowing skin,” says dermatologist Jessie Cheung, MD. It’s a gentle acid that aids in exfoliation. AHAs help loosen the “glue” that holds together dead skin cells, allowing you to slough off the top layer of your skin more easily.
It’s also a popular choice in skincare products because of its molecule size. “Glycolic acid is the smallest alpha hydroxy acid as thus the most popular of the AHAs, as it penetrates the skin easily,” says Dr. Cheung, especially when compared to other AHAs with larger molecules, like lactic acid and malic acid.
The Benefits of Glycolic Acid
Not only is glycolic acid an effective exfoliator, but it also encourages cellular turnover. This helps to fade hyperpigmentation and scarring while also reducing the appearance of wrinkles. In turn, your complexion will look brighter and fine lines and wrinkles will appear to fade away, making it a major power-player in any anti-aging skincare routine.
What is Salicylic Acid?
Alternatively, salicylic acid is a beta hydroxy acid that is used to treat oily, acne-prone skin. “Salicylic acid, a beta hydroxy acid, is more often used in topical acne treatments because it is oil-soluble and thus gets into your pores, unlike alpha-hydroxy acids, which are water-soluble,” says Dr. Cheung.
The Benefits of Salicylic Acid
Even if you don’t suffer from bad breakouts, salicylic acid can help you get your oil production under control. Not only is it oil-based, which allows it to penetrate deeper into your pores, but it also boasts anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial properties. This means it helps to reduce the size and redness of pimples, all while clearing out pore-clogging bacteria responsible for acne.
Glycolic Acid vs. Salicylic Acid: When to Use Which
While both salicylic acid and glycolic acid can improve your skin tone and texture, a general rule of thumb is that salicylic acid is most commonly used to treat acne-prone or oily skin, and glycolic acid is ideal for mature skin that wants to target fine lines and wrinkles.
If you want to treat bad breakouts and reduce the signs of aging at once, however, Dr. Cheung recommends using a product that combines both acids. “We know that combining different acids improves efficacy while decreasing irritation, so if you suffer from occasional acne but also want to treat fine lines and wrinkles, consider a combination glycolic/salicylic acid product." After all, as Dr. Cheung says, "to get the best of both worlds–why choose?”
When to Use Salicylic Acid:
For Acne: Salicylic acid is the best line of defense against all types of acne and breakouts, as it allows you to gently exfoliate and unclog pores without irritating acne flare-ups. It also contains anti-inflammatory and anesthetic properties, which can help soothe and reduce the size of pimples, all while clearing out the harmful bacteria that led to the breakout in the first place. If you occasionally deal with acne but are also concerned about fine lines and wrinkles, opt for a product that contains both salicylic and glycolic acid to yield the best results, like these CANE + AUSTIN Acne Retexture Pads, which are five percent glycolic acid and two percent salicylic acid.
For Oily Skin: If you have oily skin, salicylic acid is the right choice for you. That’s because the powerful BHA decreases sebum production, making it the best acid for rebalancing oily skin. Other acne-fighting products or manual exfoliators can further strip our skin of the oil it needs and lead to excessive drying, which kicks our glands into overdrive and leads to excess oil (or sebum) production. This further clogs your pores and contributes to breakouts. Salicylic acid can break the vicious cycle by balancing the amount of sebum your skin produces.
For Blackheads: Salicylic acid goes beneath the surface of your skin it can clear out pore-clogging debris responsible for blackheads. It also contains antimicrobial properties which help prevent future acne flare-ups.
When to Use Glycolic Acid:
For Exfoliating: While both glycolic and salicylic acid are great exfoliators, glycolic acid is the universal choice for sloughing off dead skin cells at the surface of your skin. Think of it as the holy grail of exfoliators. It’s also more gentle, making it an ideal exfoliant for all skin types (even sensitive skin).
For Hyperpigmentation: If you want to reduce dark marks (a.k.a. hyperpigmentation) left from sun damage and aging, glycolic acid is your best bet. “AHAs (like glycolic acid) are generally preferred for normal to dry, sun-damaged skin because they have been proven to be effective in reducing the appearance of sun damage,” says dermatologist Hadley King, MD. Just be sure to follow it up with a good sunscreen before you head outdoors.
For Fine Lines & Wrinkles: Glycolic acid improves your skin’s texture, tone, and appearance, creating a more supple glow all while sloughing away dead skin cells at the surface. The result? A radiant, youthful complexion and less fine lines. It also encourages skin to retain moisture. “Glycolic acid is more universally used for anti-aging, as mature skin tends to be more easily dried out,” says Dr. Cheung.
The Best Salicylic Acid Products:
1. SUNDAY RILEY U.F.O. Ultra Clarifying Acne Treatment Face Oil
If maskne has got you wondering where the heck your clear skin went, this oil is here to help. It’s enriched with 1.5 percent salicylic acid to clear acne-causing buildup from congested pores. The non-greasy serum also has tea tree oil and black cumin seed oil to support that clear skin, as well as hexylresorcinol and licorice to brighten the appearance of dark spots and acne marks. But don’t worry—all of this won’t dry out your skin thanks to the addition of calming chamomile and neroli. As if that isn’t enough, U.F.O. also has milk thistle and cucumber seed oil to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Yes, it’s out of this world.
2. MURAD Clarifying Cleanser
This Ipster-favorite gel face wash contains 1.5 percent encapsulated salicylic acid that works to banish acne-causing bacteria long after you’ve washed it off your face. It not only helps kick blackheads, whiteheads, and cysts to the curb, but it also keeps new ones from forming. It’s great for all skin types but those with sensitive skin will especially love that it uses green tea extract to calm irritation and reduce redness. As with any clarifying cleanser (or face wash in general), be sure to follow it up with a lightweight—but hydrating—moisturizer.
3. DEWYTREE The Clean Lab AC Dew Foam
This popular K-beauty brand’s acne-busting cleanser helps control excess sebum with antimicrobial Sciadopitys verticillata root extract and calming white willow stem extract, plus salicylic acid, of course. With a pH value of 6.6, this cleanser is ultra-gentle and balanced for even the most sensitive skin types. It clears out congestion and buffs away dead skin cells while hydrating skin at the same time.
The Best Glycolic Acid Products:
1. SUNDAY RILEY Good Genes Glycolic Acid Treatment
All it takes is just one use of this cult-favorite exfoliating serum to see major results, as it works to reduce the appearance of wrinkles and sun spots, leaving you with a youthful glow by morning.
2. AVANT SKINCARE Discovery Edit - Glycolic Acid Rejuvenating Face Exfoliator
The glycolic acid in this exfoliator works to slough off dead skin cells and reduce the appearance of enlarged pores. When used twice a week, skin feels smoother and looks clearer. Plus, glycolic acid is a powerful anti-aging ingredient so expect to see any fine lines and wrinkles smoothed out thanks to an increase in cell turnover. It’s basically a magical two-in-one.
3. CANE + AUSTIN Face & Body Glycolic Acid Scrub
This powerful cleanser employs both glycolic and salicylic acid and works overtime to reduce signs of aging and acne–and did we mention it’s suitable to use all over? Get ready to glow from head-to-toe.
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