How Long Does Your Skincare Product Actually Take To Work? A Derm Explains All

Get to know your skin.

What does it like? What does it hate? Just like starting a new job or meeting someone, your skin needs time to suss out the situation before making a long-term decision. Luckily, it’s pretty good at giving red flags when something isn’t right. “If you apply something to your face and feel a burning or tingling sensation, I would be cautious about using that product again. See how your skin reacts over the following 48 to 72 hours before you try that product again,” advises Dr. Turegano, adding that you’ll want to pay close attention to your skin in that time frame. “See if there’s redness or associated peeling in the following 24 to 72 hours before trying that product again. Some faint redness can be expected with exfoliating actives or retinoids or hydroquinone, but pronounced redness or splotchy redness are more red flags.”

And know that it might get a little messy before things clear up, especially when it comes to healing acne. When an active zit-fighting ingredient comes into the mix (think: benzoyl peroxide, retinoids, or salicylic acid) you may experience the dreaded purging. This is totally normal, and often a sign the product is doing what it is supposed to do: increase skin cell turnover. “This causes oil, debris, and keratin that have been collecting in the pores to now come to the surface, manifesting as acne breakouts,” Dr. Turegano says. “Classically, purging occurs within 2 to 4 weeks of starting a new product with active ingredients. If your new breakouts are persistent for more than 8 weeks, I recommend seeing a dermatologist.”

The ingredients

AHA/BHAs: Immediately

Who doesn’t love instant gratification? These flash exfoliators are known for their immediate brightening effects, but (shocker) the bigger preventative benefits are long-term. “The prime example of a BHA is salicylic acid. You can see immediate results because it can dry out pimples. But consistent use over the course of 2 to 3 months can help prevent acne breakouts and clear blackheads,” explains Dr. Turegano.

When you see quick-fix effects, it can be tempting to overdo it, but you’ll want to take things low and slow so as not to over-sensitize your skin. “I recommend starting these products one at a time for a minimum of two weeks to ensure that you’re not sensitive to those products, as it can take up to 14 days for your skin to show an allergy or reaction,” adds Dr. Turegano.

Where to find it: YOUTH TO THE PEOPLE Kombucha + 11% AHA Exfoliation Power Toner

Hyaluronic Acid: A Few Minutes

Universally loved by skin enthusiasts and experts, hyaluronic acid (a sugar molecule naturally found in collagen) attracts moisture to the skin—kind of like a tall glass of water for your complexion. “It can make your skin look plump within minutes of using,” says Dr. Turegano, which is why it’s a popular addition to skincare routines for just about every skin type, from oily or acne-prone to dry or sensitive.

Where to find it: GRACE & STELLA’s Hyaluronic Acid Serum

Caffeine: A Few Hours

It helps you feel alive in the morning, perks you up and out of your 3 p.m. slump, and helps stimulate tired and dull skin. Typically found in eye creams, serums, and moisturizes, it works by increasing blood flow and circulation to help reduce puffiness. As for how long it takes? “You can start to see the results in a couple of hours after use,” says Dr. Turegano.

Where to find it: ORIGINS GINZING™Oil-Free Energy Boosting Gel Moisturizer

Vitamin C: 3-4 Weeks

Also known as ascorbic acid, vitamin C is a naturally occurring antioxidant that helps protect skin from free radicals, gently dissolves skin cells to brighten and lighten hyperpigmentation, and helps boost collagen production. In short, it’s the gold standard for brightening. However, it can’t work its magic overnight—consistency and commitment are key to seeing desired results. “You can start noticing improvement in the brightness of complexion after 3 to 4 weeks of use. For hyperpigmentation, it takes more like 2 to 3 months,” Dr. Turegano tells us.

Where to find it: VITABRID C12 Vitamin C Dual Drop Serum

Benzoyl Peroxide: 2-3 months

Another two-fold skincare ingredient is this acne-fighting powerhouse. “It can work pretty quickly to clear an emergency pimple,” says Turegano. By exfoliating top layer skin cells, benzoyl peroxide is able to penetrate below to kill bacteria, which is why you’ll often find this ingredient in spot treatments. But for preventative benefits and warding off future breakouts, you’ll want to stick with it for 2 to 3 months. In this case, reach for a lower percentage product (think cleansers or topical gels) will be your best bet to avoid potential irritation.

Where to find it: TULA SKINCARE Go Away Acne Spot Treatment

Retinol: 3-6 months

Derived from vitamin A, retinoids and retinols (yes, they’re different) can be extremely effective against acne, psoriasis, fine lines, and discoloration—which is why they’re considered skincare holy grails. These powerful products can have a slew of initial side effects known as the “retinol scaries”, but once your skin adjusts it all comes down to consistency. “I tell patients that this takes 2 to 3 months of use before seeing improvement,” says Dr. Turegano. But like most good things in life, the wait is totally worth it.

Where to find it: MURAD Retinol Youth Renewal Night Cream

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