Applying eye cream is one of the most seemingly simple steps in a skincare routine. Dab, massage, done—right? Well, there’s actually more than meets the eye...cream (sorry, we had to). The delicate eye area is one of the first spots to show signs of aging and stress (i.e. fine lines, wrinkles, puffiness, inflammation, etc.), which means that it’s important to nourish your under eyes with the right ingredients and application techniques.
To get you from I-don't-know to pro status in no time, we tapped Ava Lemons, a licensed skin therapist at Heyday Skincare in Los Angeles. Below she shares expert insight on what to look for in a formula and how to apply eye cream like a pro. We even highlighted a few of the best eye creams for major skin concerns.
Ava Lemons is a licensed skin therapist at Heyday Skincare in Los Angeles.
Just like you would choose a moisturizer to target personalized skin concerns, an eye cream should be selected with the same sort of specificity. However, keep in mind that this delicate skin may have different needs than the rest of your face.
Lemons explains: “The eye area is it’s own zone on the face. Even if someone has oily skin, they might have dry skin around the eye area, or someone with combo skin may have a few crow’s feet.” Think of these creams as a chance to tailor your skin routine to your specific needs.
Not sure where to start? Lemons gives us a rundown of four common eye-area concerns and how to best address them.
A little too much wine, a rough night’s sleep, allergy season...all of these can turn a healthy complexion into a puffy danger zone. If puffy eyes tend to be an issue for you, Lemons suggests searching for eye creams with active ingredients like arnica, green tea, and vitamins E and K.
“They help constrict the blood vessels which, in turn, diminishes the appearance of swelling,” she says. You can also look for products containing caffeine extract, which will boost circulation and help to de-puff tired eyes. But don’t worry—this quick hit of energy is only skin-deep. You can still drink your cold brew without the extra jitters.
This hydrating under-eye cream instantly reduces the appearance of puffiness, dark circles, under-eye bags, and fine lines thanks to a blend of caffeine and peptides. While some eye creams have a rich texture, this formula is super lightweight, making it perfect to layer under makeup in the morning.
Fine lines and crow’s feet are a natural part of aging, but if you’re keen on slowing down that process—you’ve got options. Lemons says she likes to reach for eye creams that are heavy on skin-loving vitamins (like vitamin C and vitamin A) and peptides. As we age, our natural levels of collagen begin to break down, but peptides (the bond that links your amino acids) can help stave off the lowering of collagen and aid in rebuilding your natural supply. In short, they firm the skin and promote a more youthful appearance overall.
Kiss the look of wrinkles and crow’s feet goodbye with help from this advanced eye treatment. Formulated with protein-rich actives, the weightless formula helps soften, smooth, and hydrate the delicate skin around your eyes without overloading it. Padina pavonica (a moisture-boosting, brown macroalgae found on the Mediterranean coast) and blue flower linseed (rich in protein, minerals and the essential fatty acid Omega-9) help to tone and firm, while an amino acid complex helps lock moisture into the skin.
“The eye area doesn’t contain oil glands, so the goal is always to keep this area well moisturized,” Lemons points out. So while oily skin types might shudder at the idea of richly textured products, this zone can easily suffer from dehydration without proper care. Lemons recommends eye creams that contain shea butter or hyaluronic acid to help retain moisture and create a protective barrier. Worried about breakouts? Be sure to steer clear of comedogenic ingredients, like mineral oil and petroleum.
Providing copious amounts of hydration to the delicate eye area is this eye cream's number one priority. It's formulated with moisture-locking ceramides, smoothing oat kernel extract, collagen-boosting pennywort extract, and inflammation-reducing comfrey leaf. All in all, this herbal eye cream is designed to boost moisture levels around your thinnest, most delicate area of skin for up to 26 hours. Supple, youthful-looking eyes, here you come.
We hate to break it to you, but eye creams alone won’t completely get rid of dark circles. “Unfortunately, most eye circles are genetic and can’t be fixed with eye cream—despite what marketing claims are made,” says Lemons.
However, eye creams can help minimize the appearance of dark circles and dark spots around the orbital bone. To combat the issue, Lemons advises a surge of moisture and consistency. By applying eye cream daily, you’ll keep the under eyes smooth and hydrated—which is the perfect way to prep this area for concealer.
This best-selling formula uses caffeine and Brazilian ginseng root extract to rapidly tame any puffiness and reduce the appearance of dark circles. Concentrated horse chestnut and acmella oleracea extracts smooth the appearance of crow’s feet and fine lines, and antioxidant-rich lutein creates a radiant glow. Additionally, cocoa butter, shea butter, and watermelon extract plump the skin with moisture. If you're looking for an eye cream that can tackle dark circles and then some, this multitasking formula should be your new go-to.
Want to discover even more of the best eye creams? See our full list of faves.
Now that you’ve successfully navigated the vast array of eye creams available to you, it’s time to apply. Here's how to use your new eye cream like a pro.
Treat eye cream just like any other moisturizing product by priming your canvas for the hydration to come. Begin by using your go-to cleanser and favorite toner to set the stage for maximum absorption. You may want to follow with a moisturizer, but this is an area of contention among experts—so go with whatever order of operations works best for you. “I prefer to apply eye cream before moisturizer, but if you forget, don’t worry! Just make sure you’re putting it on twice a day,” says Lemons.
“The eye area is so delicate, you don’t need to apply large amounts of product or use a heavy hand when it comes to eyes,” explains Lemons. Before you measure out your amount, she recommends a quick hand rinse to get any residue off of your fingertips, which could irritate sensitive skin. Then, apply a teeny amount (think half a pea size) to your ring finger—this will help you maintain a gentle touch during application.
Lemons let us in on a pro-tip that blew our minds: “I tap the eye cream that’s on my ring finger with the other ring finger, so it’s distributed evenly and then tap my fingers in a circle around both eyes at once,” she says. By tapping in a semi-circle shape from under the eye to the outer corners to the brow bone, you can help stimulate blood flow, allowing for better product absorption.
It’s time to go pro. Use these tips and tricks to take your eye care to the next level.
Lemon’s personal fave way to keep eye cream fresh is by storing it in the refrigerator. “The cold feeling feels soothing around the delicate eye area,” she says. Not only is this a great way to stay cool in the summer months, but the chillier temp will also help reduce puffiness.
While many love the luxe feel of a rich eye cream, Lemons prefers a gel consistency—which won’t contribute to milia (those tiny hard white bumps) around the eyes. Bonus: Gel formulas are less likely to seep into your eyes, so you can work up a sweat without worrying about irritation.
Planning on applying concealer afterward? Give your eye cream a minimum of 90 seconds to fully sink in before swiping on your concealer.
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