How To Cover Melasma With Tips & Tricks from a Makeup Artist
True story: there’s nothing wrong with having melasma. Any type of hyperpigmentation—from dark spots to age spots and dark circles—is nothing to be ashamed of. But if you want to cover melasma, or any type of dark patches, that’s a whole different story, and we’ve got you covered (literally!). Attempting to cover melasma differs from other skin conditions like acne or rosacea. It’s not necessarily harder or easier, but you’ll need different products to take on this discoloration, which we’ll walk you through below.
Melasma is characterized by dark patches (which sometimes look like an area full of freckles), most often on the cheeks, forehead, chin, and on the upper lip. You’ll want to see a board-certified dermatologist to get an accurate diagnosis and advice on how to even your skin tone. This often includes adding vitamin C and other brightening skincare products to your skincare routine.
In addition to treating melasma, you might want to cover it up once in a while. We enlisted LA-based makeup artist Tara Dowburd to help.
Meet the Expert
Tara Dowburd is an LA-based makeup artist and founder of Make-Up Therapy.
How to Cover Melasma With Makeup
1. Prep With Skincare
“Your skincare prep is always key, regardless of your skin type, but especially when you’re going to be using a heavier foundation for more coverage,” Dowburd says. She recommends starting your daily skincare routine by applying a vitamin C serum, such as BEAUTYSTAT Universal C Skin Refiner. Then comes a hydrating moisturizer (such as one with hyaluronic acid), and a blurring/smoothing primer. Finally, don’t forget your SPF. Of course, sunscreen protects your skin but also helps keep hyperpigmentation from getting darker.
2. Apply Color Corrector
“Before applying foundation, I recommend using a color correcting, full-coverage concealer on the specific areas you want to neutralize,” Dowburd says. “For example if you have a medium-to-dark skin tone, you want to use a deep orange or red tone color correcting concealer and if you have light-to-medium skin tone, you want to use a pinky peach tone.”
3. Apply Full-Coverage Foundation
Dowburd says the best foundation for covering melasma is one that’s buildable to full-coverage with a yellow-ish base. A buildable formula is helpful so you can apply more product on the areas you want to cover up.
But what’s most important here is the type of foundation you use and that depends on your skin type. “If you have oily skin, it’s best to use a brush with a full coverage foundation powder,” she says. IIf you have dry skin, it’s best to use a dense stippling blender brush to apply a full-coverage cream or liquid foundation and then set it with a dusting of foundation powder or setting powder.”
The Best Makeup for Covering Melasma
1. DERMABLEND Cover Care Full-Coverage Concealer
Dowburd recommends using this hydrating full-coverage concealer on top of a color corrector. This one is a non-comedogenic formula, dermatologist-tested for sensitive skin, and is even waterproof and transfer-resistant. It’s one of the best concealers for all skin types (thanks to that natural matte finish) that will never leave skin looking cakey.
2. ESTÉE LAUDER Double Wear Stay-in-Place Matte Powder Foundation
If you have oily skin, Dowburd recommends applying this matte powder foundation with a powder foundation brush, such as F.A.R.A.H Pressed Powder Brush 620F. It contains boron nitride and calcium silicate to help keep that cakey look away, polymethylsilsesquioxane to give skin a blurred look, and silica to mattify and absorb oil.
3. IT COSMETICS Your Skin But Better CC+ Cream with SPF 50+
“CC” literally stands for “color correcting” so it makes sense why Dowburd would recommend this full-coverage foundation for those with dry skin. It’s infused with peptides, niacin, algae, vitamins, hyaluronic acid, hydrolyzed collagen and antioxidants for max brightening power while you wear it. “Use a dense stippling blender brush to apply,” adds Dowburd. We love the REALHER Nothing is Impossible Foundation Brush.
4. MAKE UP FOR EVER Ultra HD Underpainting Color Correcting Palette
Dowburd likes MAKE UP FOREVER’s full-coverage concealers. This color-correcting palette makes it so easy to neutralize darkness on any skin tone. Choose from Very Light, Light, Medium, and Tan and get four color-correcting cream concealers perfect for covering hyperpigmentation anywhere on the face and body.
5. TARTE Smooth Operator Amazonian Clay Finishing Powder
Anyone can use setting powder but Dowburd recommends those using a liquid or cream foundation dust a light coating onto the skin, especially around areas where you added more foundation or color corrector. This will ensure it lasts all day and doesn’t transfer onto your clothes. Apply it with a fluffy powder brush, such as COMPLEX CULTURE Plush Powder Brush.
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