How to Layer Serums, Step-by-Step

Step 1: Start With Clean Skin

Before you apply your serums, you need to start with a clean base. New York City-based dermatologist Toral Vaidya, MD, MPH shares, “Use a gentle cleanser suited to your skin type that leaves your skin feeling clean and balanced.” Someone with acne-prone skin will use a different cleanser than someone with sensitive skin. The choice is yours, so long as you know what works for your skin and what doesn’t. If you need help determining the right face wash for you, here is our list of the best cleansers for every skin type.

Step 2: Don’t Apply Too Many Serums

Because serums contain so many nourishing ingredients, you may feel inclined to pack as many on your face as possible. However, that could do more harm than good. “Layering too many serums can overwhelm your skin, leading to irritation, breakouts, or decreased effectiveness of the products,” notes skin expert Hallie Font. “The skin can only absorb so much, so overloading it can be counterproductive.” The general rule of thumb is to apply no more than two to three serums based on what your skin needs in the morning and evening. Any more than that and you run the risk of ruining your skin barrier and the effectiveness of the products.

Step 3: Apply Lighter Serums First

When layering serums, you want to go from thinnest to heaviest. Esthetician Kyoko Getz says, “The rule of thumb when using multiple serums is to apply the lightest and fast-absorbing serums first, then layer on the thicker, more occlusive ones to ensure maximum absorption and effectiveness of all your skincare products.”

Lighter serums tend to be water-based. Dermatologist Tiffany Jow Libby, MD, FAAD, FACMS, notes that water-based serums “may include ingredients like hyaluronic acid, vitamin C, and niacinamide.” They tend to also be fast-absorbing, meaning your skin will soak them up quicker so you can apply the other products in your skincare routine not too long after they’ve been applied.

Getz suggests applying serums that better target your biggest skincare concerns first so that they can effectively do what you need them to. “If you are concerned about your hyperpigmentation, then apply a brightening serum to the skin first.” She continues, “You can also apply serum to only targeted areas first, then apply other serums to the skin.”

Step 4: Apply Heavier Serums Next

After you’ve given your thinner serums a second to be absorbed, you can move on to applying your thickest serums. These types of serums tend to be oil-based and focus on locking in moisture. “Some common oil-based serums include retinol, which helps promote cellular turnover and reduces signs of aging, and face oils with rosehip oil or squalane that help lock in moisture,” notes Dr. Libby.

Need some advice on determining the best retinol serum for your skin type? We rounded up a handful of our favorite retinol products here for your viewing pleasure.

Step 5: Use a Moisturizer

Once your serums have been effectively applied and absorbed, you should lock them in place with your moisturizer of choice. Those with oily skin will benefit from a lightweight moisturizer that doesn’t leave a greasy residue. We recommend the KATE SOMERVILLE® Oil Free Moisturizer because it’s a fast-acting, easily absorbed moisturizer made specifically for those with oily skin types. Dry skin types should use a moisturizer that’s focused on providing extra hydration, like the ITEM BEAUTY Overdew Xtra Intensive Moisturizer For Dry Skin. Featuring ultra-rich ingredients like argan oil, murumuru butter, and magnolia extract, your thirsty skin will remain quenched all day. Is your skin type neither dry nor oily? We rounded up the best moisturizers for every skin concern here.

Step 6: Finish With Sunscreen

This step is specific to a morning skincare routine as you don’t need to apply SPF-based skincare products in the evening. You can also combine steps five and six in the morning by using a moisturizer with SPF for your skin type. We generally recommend the FIRST AID BEAUTY Ultra Repair Face Moisturizer with Sunscreen Broad Spectrum SPF 30 to anyone because it keeps our complexion moisturized all day without leaving a greasy feel behind. Plus, it has SPF—who doesn’t love a multihyphenate product?

Step 7: Switch Up Your Skincare Routine From Morning to Night

The serums you apply during the day won’t be the same serums you apply in the evening. “Exfoliating serums like retinols, enzymes, and acids should be applied in the evening, while antioxidants are best for protecting the skin during the day,” shares Font. Dr. Vaidya mentions that this is why using a vitamin C serum in the morning is best, as it protects from UV damage and free radicals. Along with retinol, Dr. Vaidya recommends using “peptides or serums providing more intense hydration” to protect your skin while you sleep.

Dr. Libby echoes the above noting that it’s best to focus on hydration and protection. “In the evening, focus on restoration with retinol to boost skin cell turnover and collagen production and barrier repair ingredients like niacinamide, ceramides, and squalane,” she follows up.

4 Serum Pairings to Avoid Layering Together

1. AHAs/BHAs and Retinol

Because AHAs (ex. glycolic acid) and BHAs (ex. salicylic acid) are chemical exfoliants, they aren’t recommended to be used with a powerful ingredient like retinol. “ In those with sensitive skin, I would avoid pairing chemical exfoliants like AHA/BHAs with retinol serums,” says Dr. Libby. “This may increase skin sensitivity leading to irritation, dryness, and even breakouts.” These products can be used separately, however, so don’t be afraid to use an AHA/BHA one evening and a retinol the next.

2. Vitamin C and Retinol

Similar to the above point, vitamin C and retinol don’t mix because of how potent they are. If used together, they can increase skin irritation and cause dryness. Not to mention, they simply don’t work well in tandem. Dr. Libby says, “Retinol works best at a pH around 5.5 to 6, whereas vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) requires a lower pH around 3.5 to be effective.” Not a match made in heaven, hence why it’s best to use vitamin C in your morning skincare routine and retinol in the evening.

3. Retinol and Benzoyl Peroxide

One of the main reasons for not pairing these two skincare ingredients together, according to Getz, is that they decrease the effectiveness of one another. While both can help clear up blemishes, they need to be used individually to do so. Otherwise they won’t work and you may wind up with irritated skin.

4. Vitamin C and AHAs/BHAs

Mixing these two acids together isn’t ideal for your complexion. This is another case where pairing vitamin C with either an AHA or BHA can decrease the effectiveness of the two skincare ingredients, rendering them useless, and can also cause more irritation—which is especially true for those with sensitive skin types.

4 Best Serum Pairings to Layer Together

1. Vitamin C and Hyaluronic Acid

Font is a huge fan of using hyaluronic acid with an antioxidant like vitamin C because a hyaluronic acid serum can actually boost the effectiveness of vitamin C’s antioxidant properties. Used together, this duo is able to even skin tone, plump fine lines, and even offer sun protection.

The THIS WORKS Morning Expert Hyaluronic Serum expertly combines these two powerhouse ingredients for a formulation that replenishes your skin’s moisture levels, brightenes up dark spots, and firms and smooths your skin. What more could you ask for?

2. Retinol and Peptides

Looking for the ultimate anti-aging duo? You’ve found it in this combination of ingredients. Because retinol is a form of vitamin A, it boasts the acid’s benefits of stimulating collagen production and helping with cell turnover to offer a more youthful appearance. And when paired with peptides, which heal the skin barrier, the duo helps even out fine lines and wrinkles.

We recommend the LANEIGE Retinol Firming Treatment Cream to anyone who will listen, especially beginners who are just being introduced to retinol and need something gentle yet effective. The formula features, you guessed it, retinol and peptides to give you the smoothest, most radiant complexion of your life.

3. AHAs/BHAs and Ceramides

Smooth, plump skin is within reach thanks to this ingredient pairing. Again, AHAs and BHAs are chemical exfoliants that help to remove dead skin cells. With help from ceramides that restore your skin barrier, this match will give you a brighter complexion with less irritation.

For an AHA and ceramide duo, we like the CIATÉ LONDON AHA Primer, which can be used before you apply makeup for a more even base but we often use it on its own for smoother, brighter skin.

The DALLAS & JAMES SKINCARE CO. Watermelon Dream Clarity Serum combines salicylic acid (a BHA) and ceramides to help clear pores and lock in hydration to leave you with a healthy glow that actually lasts.

4. Niacinamide and Retinol

Dr. Libby raves about this duo being a magical match. “Niacinamide and retinol is a beautiful pairing, as niacinamide's anti-inflammatory effects help reduce the irritation often associated with retinol, making it easier to incorporate retinol into your routine.” An ideal duo for sensitive skin types.

A great option that pairs these two ingredients together (along with the beloved hyaluronic acid) is the VOLITION BEAUTY Sémillon Overnight Retinol Serum with Niacinamide + Hyaluronic Acid. Filled with so many yummy ingredients, your skin will never look better than after using this serum.

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