Whenever we twist open the jar of our favorite moisturizer, there are usually a few stand-out ingredients listed on the front label. You may have seen the word “lipids” on your favorite products and figured they were a good thing without really understanding what they are. If this sounds like you, we got you! There are so many different skincare ingredients to make sense of, so today, we tapped esthetician Enzo Vazquez at SleekCare Spa to break down everything you need to know about this must-have ingredient.
Enzo Vazquez is an esthetician at SleekCare Spa in New York City.
“Lipids are basically the natural fats and oils found in your skin that keep it healthy and protected,” explains Vazquez. “Think of them as the building blocks that make up your skin’s barrier.” Fatty acids, ceramides, and cholesterol are all lipids. Yep, cholesterol is actually present in your skin, and adding more to it by way of skincare products can actually help the skin barrier strengthen and retain moisture. “Each type [of lipid] plays a different role in making sure your skin stays hydrated, smooth, and protected from the outside world,” Vazquez adds.
A popular metaphor in skincare is that lipids are like the “mortar” that help seal in moisture between the “bricks” of your skin cells. Lipids are key to maintaining a healthy, balanced skin barrier. “This barrier function prevents transepidermal water loss (TEWL), which is when moisture escapes from your skin, leading to dryness and irritation,” explains Vazquez. “By locking in moisture, lipids keep your skin supple, soft, and plump, reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.”
Ceramides, which are a type of lipid, “make up around 50% of your skin barrier and are essential for repairing damaged skin,” says Vazquez.
Fatty acids, another lipid, “help to balance oil production, which can keep your skin from looking too greasy or too dry,” says Vazquez.
Cholesterol, the third lipid, “works with ceramides and fatty acids to maintain barrier function and improve elasticity, making your skin feel firmer and more youthful,” says Vazquez.
By reducing potential irritation, lipids help your skin take on active ingredients like retinoids or acids. “This makes them a must-have for anyone who loves using strong skincare treatments but needs a buffer to prevent sensitivity,” explains Vazquez. “So, when your skin feels tight, flaky, or stressed after using powerful treatments, products with lipids can bring it back to life by boosting hydration and supporting natural repair processes,” he adds.
All of the above barrier boosters also protect against environmental stressors like UV rays and pollution, “preventing free radicals from penetrating and breaking down your skin,” says Vazquez. “This means fewer signs of premature aging and a more resilient complexion overall.”
Vazquez says that in general, lipids are very gentle and safe for most people. “It’s rare to have side effects since they mimic what’s already in your skin,” he says. “But if you have super oily or acne-prone skin, you’ll want to be mindful of the type of lipid-based products you’re using.” That’s because heavy oils and certain products may clog your pores and contribute to an overall greasy feeling, he adds. Like with any skincare routine, adding in lipids is all about finding out what works best for you.
Your moisturizer or serum is your best bet for adding in lipids to your skincare routine. “Look for moisturizers or serums that have ceramides, fatty acids, or natural oils like jojoba or squalane,” says Vazquez. “You can use them morning or night, depending on what your skin needs.”
Start by layering a lipid-based product after cleansing and toning, but before a heavier cream and SPF, says Vazquez. We love the SKINCEUTICALS Triple Lipid Restore Cream for this. “This unique lipid-enriched cream contains the first 2:4:2 cholesterol-dominant ratio to help restore skin’s external barrier and support natural self-repair while potently nourishing aging skin,” says Vazquez.
“If your skin is on the drier side, consider using a lipid-rich moisturizer or even adding a drop of facial oil to lock everything in. Your skin will thank you with that healthy, radiant glow,” he adds.
Lipids are generally safe and well-tolerated for all skin types because they are already naturally present in your skin. If you want to repair your skin barrier and boost moisture, reach for a serum or moisturizer with lipids in it to rebalance your skin and help prevent fine lines and wrinkles.