The LOC Method Might Be the Key to Healthy Curls and Coils
Healthy curls and coils don’t come without some work. Natural hair is a science that’s been perfected over the years by naturalistas who want hydrated, defined curls every time (and who could blame ’em?). Although hair is definitely personal, there are techniques that work well for all types of curls, including type 2 (soft to deep waves), type 3 (soft curls to ultra curly), and type 4 (coiled to tightly coiled). One of these techniques is the LOC method.
The LOC method is a natural hair technique that’s gained popularity in recent years, and it’s different from a simple wash-and-go hairstyle. Fans swear by its ability to give curls definition and bounce—we’re talking “I-just-came-from-the-salon” vibes—when really, it’s just about the order you apply your products. The hydrated curls you get from the LOC method almost seem too good to be true—but once you try it, you might just become a believer.
Hairstylist Mahogany Plautz knows all about the LOC method and how it works on different hair types, so we enlisted the self-proclaimed hair activist to give us the lowdown on all things LOC (and even shed light on why some switch it up to make it the LCO method). Is this allowed? Will it work just as well? Who is it for? Keep reading to find out more.
Meet the Expert
Mahogany Plautz is a Paul Mitchell Pro educator, curls and color theory trainer, and “hair activist.” She teaches other hairstylists how to care for their natural hair, properly cut curls, and perfect the wash-and-go technique.
So, what is the LOC method?
Put simply, LOC is a mnemonic device (remember that from school?) that helps you remember the order you should apply hair products. “It’s a style prep that infuses hair with moisture,” adds Plautz. “It’s so important for curly folks to create a hydration regimen. With each bend and twist, the cuticle lifts slightly, losing its moisture and nourishments. Working with your stylist can help you use the correct amount of product to use and the best ways to apply them for you.”
The “L” stands for liquid or leave-in conditioner, the “O” for oil, and the “C” for cream. These are categories and many natural hair products can fall within L, O, and C. “The leave-in hydrates the hair; layering the oil on after helps to seal in the moisture; while the cream helps to smooth out the cuticle, locking in the moisture,” explains Plautz.
“Liquid" in the LOC method often refers to water-based conditioning products. This could be a spray or a leave-in conditioner, which are most often water-based. Wondering how a product could be water-based when it’s so thick? Well, you might actually be thinking about the texture. You can find leave-ins that are whipped, creamy, watery, or a range of other lightweight textures. And the good news is, they’ll all work for this method. Think of this product as your base.
“Oil” is, well, an oil that creates an invisible layer around your hair shaft to lock in the moisture and keep water from escaping (like a sealant!). There are a bunch of great hair oils on the market, but there’s always the option of going the more natural route and using something right from your kitchen. Some people swear by castor oil, olive oil, grapeseed oil, argan oil, avocado oil, and jojoba oil for their hair—but either way, it’s all about experimenting and finding out what works best for you and your unique hair. The most important thing is to make sure your second layer is an oil.
For the final step of the LOC method, “cream,” refers to the thickest of all the styling products. You should be looking for cream styling products that help with moisture retention. Some LOC method fans like to use a more lightweight styling cream or creamy moisturizer, while others opt to go heavier with shea butter. Again, it’s all about your preferences here.
What hair types can use the LOC method?
Remember that the LOC method is all about moisturizing and locking in that hydration. Curly hair tends to be naturally more dry (even without all the hot tools, styling, and hair dye). Plautz loves working with the LOC method on curly, coily, and kinky hair that’s craving moisture. Other than your curl type, you’ll also want to look at your hair’s porosity. There are three different levels of hair porosity: low, medium, and high. Your porosity level is determined by genetics, heat styling usage, and many other environmental factors.
How do you tell your porosity level? It’s pretty easy. Take a strand of hair and put it inside a cup of water. If it floats to the top, you have high porosity hair. If it hovers somewhere in the middle, you have medium-porosity hair, and if it sinks to the bottom, you have low porosity hair. This is one way to test it, but you can tell with a few other ways, too. Because low porosity strands have a sealed cuticle, you might notice product buildup pretty easily. Meanwhile, medium porosity hair has an open cuticle, so it’s generally seen as healthy hair that stays moisturized easily. High porosity has an extra wide-open cuticle, which usually means you’re dealing with dry hair that struggles to retain oil and moisture.
“Hair with a higher porosity responds very well to the LOC method,” explains Plautz. “Anyone experiencing heat and/or color generally has a higher porosity.” Because there’s damage to the hair cuticle, the LOC method helps seal in the oil. On the other hand, “Low porosity hair tends to respond to the LCO method better,” continues Plautz. Wait, you can just switch around the letters like that? Yup—and here’s why. “[Lower porosity hair is] slower to absorb the liquid and takes only what it needs from the cream,” explains Plautz. “The oil further protects the hair strands by creating a thicker barrier.”
How to do the LOC method, step by step
Now that you know all about the LOC method, it’s time to start the layering process. For the first step (liquid), Plautz likes to use conditioners in a spray bottle for a leave-in. If your hair is dry, section it and spray it with water. “[Spray conditioners] allow you to add the moisture to the specific spots in the hair,” she says. “You can control the amount of leave-in depending on the diameter of the hair—less for fine hair and more for coarse hair.” Be sure to really focus on your ends as those tend to to be the driest part of your hair shaft.
For the next step, you’ll want to choose an oil without silicones. “They penetrate into the hair shaft and combine with the internal structure of the hair,” says Plautz. “Typically oil is added to the hands and worked into the hair at the ends first and through to the mid-shaft.” Apply a thin layer to each section, being careful not to overdo the oil as your hair will feel weighed down. Skip your roots, especially if your scalp tends to get greasy.
The final step is to seal in the moisture, and Plautz says the choices here are pretty vast. Some folks love a thick moisturizer like shea butter, while others prefer something more lightweight. Regardless, the LOC method ensures the heaviest styling product is the final step, which reduces frizz and retains as much hydration as possible. Just start slow with the cream and build up to the moisture level you want, and prepare for coils that have never felt more hydrated.
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