They don't call it the change for nothing. Menopause is most known as the point when you stop having menstrual periods, but it's also the stage your ovaries have stopped releasing eggs and producing most of their estrogen. It typically occurs between your late 40s to early 50s. And while symptoms like hot flashes and mood swings are among the most talked-about, skin changes are a major part of menopause.
Celeste Lee, beauty industry veteran and the co-founder of Caire Beauty, tells us, "[Menopause] causes a 30% loss in all skin cell production, including collagen, elastin proteins, melanocytes, fibroblasts, hyaluronic acid, you name it." So what does this mean for your skin? Basically, "The laugh and expression lines, which used to bounce up and disappear in your 30s, now become permanent," explains Lee. And it's not just about the fine lines and wrinkles. Excess oil production, facial hair, sun spots, and acne can all be linked to menopause. Ahead, the changes you might see in your skin and what to do about them.
Celeste Lee is a beauty industry veteran and the co-founder of Caire Beauty, a brand on the leading edge of the menopause beauty movement.
"It's complicated," admits Lee, "but as estrogen declines, testosterone levels rise, creating an imbalance of male to female hormones. While estrogen helps the skin manage acne bacteria and sebum, testosterone (an androgen) stimulates oil production." In menopause, not only does cell generation slow down, but it doesn't get rid of dead skin cells like it used to. This causes clogging, dullness, and blemishes, particularly in the lower-third area of the face.
Tip #1: Keep Away From Stripping Products
Although you might be tempted to reach for the benzoyl peroxide and astringent products you used in your teens, Lee urges you to hold off. She says, "They're incredibly harsh and drying on the skin at a time when you want to support skin hydration and build up skin strength." Instead, try a gentle cleanser or consider double cleansing with an oil to remove makeup, and a cream product to wash away sebum and dirt. Lee also recommends incorporating a nourishing, fragrance-free mask to hydrate skin and remove old cell buildup a few times per week.
Tip #2: Avoid retinoids
While retinoids are great for fine lines, Lee suggests you limit or stop vitamin C serums or retinoids until your skin returns to a balanced state. A serum like the CAIRE Theorem Serum Boost, which has anti-inflammatory hyaluronic acid in it, keeps skin hydrated and clear both above and below the skin barrier. However, for more annoying breakouts, she adds, "Other worthwhile blemish helpers are the hydrocolloid acne spot patches by Hero, CosRx." Just be sure to use the non-medicated formulas.
One of the very first signs of perimenopause is drying skin. Lee tells us, "It starts pretty early, as early as 35, and most women have no idea that it's caused by internal aging." When you notice that shift, it's important you take action.
Tip #1: Hydrate From the Inside Out
"By 40 at the latest, you want to adjust your skincare and water and food intake to support your skin," she says. "Every part of your skin routine should support hydration and pro-collagen protein behavior." To do so, Lee recommends you get tons of vitamin C and other antioxidants via real fruit, vegetables, and berries, not just supplements.
Tip #2: Load Up on Hydrating Topicals
When your natural hydration levels are dipping, it's important you feed your skin with topical treatments. Lee recommends choosing serums, essences, moisturizers, and makeup infused with active skincare ingredients like hyaluronic acid, pro-collagen peptides, antioxidants, algae, and ceramides. She especially loves a low-weight hyaluronic acid, saying, "It's so important because it can seep into deeper layers of skin and pull up moisture, literally making the skin stronger and smoother from the inside." She adds, "It's like a soft corset for your skin.”
Things can get a bit hairy when you hit menopause, and we mean that quite literally. "About 10 to 15% of women respond to declining estrogen with random hair growth," explains Lee. While we all live with a subtle peach fuzz at worst, Lee says menopause can bring on the rise of what looks like a mustache or stray coarse hair, especially on the chin. It's totally normal, albeit annoying.
Tip: Pluck, Pluck, Hooray
Luckily, a few stray facial hairs are easy to treat. Most of the time, you can just pluck, wax, or use electrolysis and laser treatment to remove all traces of it. However, Lee says, "If they continue or the appearance of hair is significant and sudden, it can be a sign of an underlying issue such as diabetes or something more, so you would definitely want to check in with your doctors."
As if the sagging skin, chin hair, and breakouts weren't enough changes for you to deal with, menopause does, in fact, make skin more sensitive to the sun. Lee says, "Your skin is getting thinner, and also, you're producing fewer melanocytes, which is responsible for melanin production, so your skin becomes more likely to react to the sun [with] sunburns, 'prickly' rashes, and brown or red spots." And this is true for women of all skin tones. Unfortunately, going out late in the day or wearing a sun hat may not do the trick anymore.
Tip: Take Cover
"It's essential to nourish your skin every day with collagen and hyaluronic peptides and limit retinol use (especially in sunny months) to ensure the strongest possible skin for when you are outside," explains Lee. But prevention, before you leave the house, is only half the battle. Lee recommends protecting your skin with physical and hybrid sunscreens that you reapply every few hours and limiting sun exposure. Her favorite way to sneak in extra protection is to reach for SPF-infused makeup and sun hats.
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