Everything You Need to Know About the Polygel Manicure You’re Seeing All Over Social Media

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By Elizabeth Denton
Published on August 11, 2021
Close-up of woman's hands with white nail polish against pink background
Close-up of woman's hands with white nail polish against pink background

Back in high school, I was all about acrylic nails. The longer the better, all with nail art designs, of course. My poor natural nails took a serious beating, so I took a break from acrylic nails for a long time, hoping to give my natural nails time to rehab. That’s when I started to DIY my own manicures, experimenting with different shades and finishes of nail polish and nail art design.

Fast forward to living in NYC surrounded by the best of the best nail salons, and I got back into the professional manicure game, this time with gel polish. Every two weeks I sat in the salon chair and let the nail technician shape my natural nails, applying gel polish on top. When I wanted something a bit extra, I went for nail extensions with gel nail polish on top. The results were just OK. My nails always felt thin and the nail polish chipped easily.

That’s when I saw polygel nails on TikTok, and I was all heart eyes. They resemble my OG favorite acrylic nails, but they’re actually done really differently. To get to the bottom of this nail trend, I chatted with Morgan Haile, a nail artist who works with Gelish Polygel.

Meet the Expert

Morgan Haile is a nail artist for Morgan Taylor Professional Nail Lacquer.

Polygel Nails 101

Polygel nail enhancement is even stronger than hard gel—more so like acrylic nails—but has unlimited pliability and no mixing of harsh chemicals. Polygel is a mixture of acrylic powder and clear gel. “It’s an all-in-one formula for the perfect working consistency,” says Haile. “No monomer, no mixing, no ratios. The odorless formula allows you to work as fast or as long as you want. Tube dispensing allows you to use just what you need for no wasted product.” Haile says Polygel is extremely easy to work with because it lets you shape as long as you want before it’s time to cure. “PolyGel combines the best qualities of both acrylics and hard gels,” she adds.

What to expect from a polygel nail appointment:

Here’s what your initial full set of Polygel nail application will be like: 

  1. Sculpt natural nails into the desired shape.

  2. Push back cuticles and buff the nail bed, just like you would a regular manicure.

  3. Squeeze just the right amount of PolyGel out of the tube, and slice the product with the PolyTool.

  4. Roll product onto the nail.

  5. Using your brush and a small amount of Slip Solution, shape product into place. Use with a short, firm synthetic brush.

  6. Cure 60 seconds in 18G LED Light.

  7. Apply a thin coat of Top It Off top coat.

  8. Cure 30 seconds in the 18G LED Light.

  9. Cleanse with Nail Surface Cleanser and a lint-free wipe.

  10. Admire your finished product! 

Polygel vs. Acrylic vs. Gel Nails

Think about Polygel as the lighter, stronger, easier option. Not that acrylic and gel nails are bad, of course. Polygel gels are just 23 percent lighter than acrylic nails without sacrificing durability. Haile says they’re the most natural feeling nail enhancement. Gel nail polish is thinner but not as durable.

Some folks go for acrylic nails when they’re looking for some serious length. An acrylic powder called monomer is used for the application. If you’ve ever had an acrylic manicure, you know the application releases some strong chemicals, which can make the nail salon visit uncomfortable. Some also worry long term exposure can lead to medical issues down the line, though there’s currently no proof of that.

Gel nail polish needs to be removed and reapplied as a new manicure but both acrylic nails and Polygel can be filled in as the nails grow out. As Haile explained, Polygel nails are stronger and less prone to chips, breakage and separation. The formula is moldable and more flexible than acrylics and you have time to play around with the shape before you have to cure the nails. Even better yet, Polygel is odorless with no chemicals being released into the air.

Polygel is more expensive than a basic gel manicure but can last twice as long, depending on how fast your nails grow and your general lifestyle. For fans of this nail trend, the extra bucks are worth it.

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