Could Retinol Be The Cure For Your Acne?

So, exactly what is retinol?

Before we dive into using retinol to treat acne, let’s rewind and define exactly what retinol is. In short, it’s a vitamin A derivative that is commonly found in topical, non-prescription skincare products, and it falls under the umbrella of retinoids (which also includes adapalene, tretinoin, isotretinoin, retinoic acid, retinaldehyde, retinal, and retinyl palmitate). “Retinoid is a term that applies to any topical product that contains a derivative of Vitamin A,” says Kristina Kitsos, skincare authority and expert cosmetic injector.

Not only does retinol work wonders when it comes to anti-aging skincare, but it also can clear up your complexion as it regulates skin cell turnover. “By speeding up the shedding of old cells, pores are less likely to get clogged and bacteria is least likely to proliferate and cause acne breakouts,” says Kitsos. When it comes to treating oily skin prone to acne and bad breakouts, retinol can help increase cellular turnover and clear out congested pores. “It exfoliates the outermost layer of skin to remove dirt, dead skin cells, and oil from pores. Because of this, it’s been the go-to for treating acne for decades,” says Rachel Roff, expert aesthetician and Urban Skin Rx Founder and CEO.

New to retinol? Start low and slow.

If you’ve never used retinol before, it’s best to start with the lowest concentration, (which is typically .25%) before gradually moving up. “You also want to consider your skin type,” says Roff. “Usually oily skin types have thicker skin and can handle a higher concentration; whereas, dry skin will benefit from a lower concentration,” Roff explains.

While your dermatologist can prescribe a prescription-strength cream if you’ve never used retinoids before, it’s best to start with an OTC retinol. “Products which contain retinol are very efficacious but generally much more well-tolerated and not as strong as prescription retinoids (like retin-A),” says Kitsos. “They are less intense and work more gradually,” she adds. You also won’t be able to apply retinol daily if you’re just starting out. “Build up to more regular usage over time,” says Dr. Hu. “You want to start slowly so as to not aggravate the skin.” Shuting Hu, Ph.D, cosmetic scientist and founder of Acaderma, recommends using it two nights a week when you initially start.

How to apply retinol products for acne

Once you’ve decided upon the right formulation for your skin type, you’re ready to watch retinol work its magic on your acne. After washing your face with a cleanser, apply it at night and be sure not to mix it with other active ingredients (especially vitamin C or AHAs/BHAs like glycolic acid or lactic acid). If you love using an antioxidant vitamin C serum in the morning, the good news is that you can still do so—just be sure to use it during your daytime routine and reserve retinol use for the evening. It’s also important to avoid sensitive areas, like around the eyes, when you’re applying the retinol.

While you may slather on creams during your nighttime skincare routine, practicing restraint with retinol will yield the best results and not exacerbate your skin. “When it comes to retinol, a little goes a long way. A pea-size amount should be plenty for the face,” says Dr. Polla, who says it’s best to apply retinol on your face when it’s completely dry, not damp.

“Moisture will accelerate the penetration of the product, which is not desired as it will lead to additional irritation,” says Dr. Polla. And although you shouldn’t mix retinol with too many products, be sure to moisturize. “You want to make sure you are using a gentle moisturizer that is non-comedogenic in an effort to avoid dry or peeling skin,” says Dr. Hu.

Don’t forget your SPF

While it goes without saying that everyone, regardless of skin type, should be wearing sunscreen every single day, it’s an even more essential step in your skincare routine if you’re using retinol. “The skin is exfoliating faster than normal, causing a slight thinning effect, so avoid sun exposure,” says Roff, who recommends wearing a sunblock or sunscreen the following day to protect the skin from burning or irritation. Even if you aren’t going to be outside, you should still apply sunscreen (SPF 30 or higher). “The sun can creep in through windows in your home or while you drive and can erase all the hard work your retinol is doing,” says Dr. Hu.

Side effects of retinol

While retinol can work wonders on your acne in the right formulation when introduced into your skincare routine on a gradual basis, if you try using it every night after never applying the product you might experience some unwanted side effects. “The side effects typically associated with this ingredient include flaking, redness, and dryness,” says Dr. Polla.

Although you might be worried, there’s no reason to be alarmed. “These side effects are “normal” in the sense that they do not indicate an allergy to this ingredient, yet more sensitive and dryer skin types will have a harder time tolerating a retinol product,” says Dr. Polla, who stresses the importance of finding the right concentration of retinol for your skin type. It’s always best to do a patch test to ensure you aren’t allergic to any new skincare products you introduce into your routine.

You can also dilute your retinol with moisturizer to ensure a more even application, which makes it easier to apply the product without using too much. “A pea-sized amount of any product is extremely difficult to evenly distribute on the face and because of this, most people end up using too much and then complaining of intolerable side effects like excessive itching, redness, and flaking of the skin,” says Kristina. “Put some facial moisturizer in your hand and then add a pea-sized amount of the retinoid of choice to that moisturizer and mix it in with your hand,” she says. Not only does this give you a greater volume of product, but it also ensures the pea-sized amount is evenly spread across the entire surface of the face. “No more itchy, red, irritated, flaking skin,” she adds.

Retinol can be beneficial for anyone who wants a younger-looking, brighter, clearer complexion, but unfortunately it just isn’t for everyone. If you’re pregnant or nursing, you shouldn’t use retinol products, and it’s always best to consult your derm to ensure a new product isn't going to interfere with your current skincare routine. “If your dermatologist has you on Accutane, you should not be using retinoids,” says Kitsos.

Ready to add retinol to your skincare routine? Here are our top picks for acne-prone skin:

Best for sensitive skin: DRUNK ELEPHANT A-Passioni™ Retinol Cream

Sensitive, acne-prone skin can benefit from starting off with this gentle-yet-potent vegan formula that serves up 1% retinol, a triple peptide blend, and vitamin F (a nourishing source of skin-soothing fatty acids). Use it for a clearer, younger-looking complexion. Bonus: The mild formula is less likely to wreak havoc on your skin if you’ve never tried retinol before.

Best for reducing the appearance of a current breakout: DERMALOGICA Retinol Clearing Oil

While mixing retinol and salicylic acid on your own is never advised, this multitasking, time-release formula combines the two acne-fighting ingredients in a nourishing oil that will zap a breakout when applied before bedtime. This powerhouse oil also features a nourishing combination of argan oil, jojoba oil, and rosehip seed oil to protect the skin’s natural barrier. Pimples won’t stand a chance.

Best for use on acne spots: SHANI DARDEN SKIN CARE Retinol Reform®

If you suffer from acne scars and hyperpigmentation, reach for this skin-brightening formula from this aesthetician to the stars. Retinol works together with niacinamide, exfoliating lactic acid, and soothing aloe vera to clear out pores and reduce dark spots and acne scars. Bonus: You can also use it as a spot treatment.

Best anti-inflammatory option: SUNDAY RILEY A+ High Dose Retinoid Serum

If you want to clear up acne and calm your complexion, reach for this potent blend that incorporates stabilized retinoids and botanicals to soothe skin while clearing out pores. Hawaiian white honey, bisabolol, cactus extract, and ginger balance, calm, and help even out skin tone.

Best to clear out whiteheads and blackheads: COSMEDIX Clarity Skin-Clarifying Serum

A unique combination of retinol, salicylic acid, willow herb, tea tree oil, and aloe vera work together to clear out congested pores without stripping your complexion of moisture.This potent formula helps improve your skin’s texture for smooth, soft skin.

Best for shrinking pores: MURAD Retinol Youth Renewal Serum

If you want to reduce the appearance of large pores and control oil production, look no further than this time-release retinol. It’s infused with moisturizing hyaluronic acid to improve skin tone and leave you with a smoother, clearer, more radiant complexion.

If you want to stay up-to-date on the best acne treatments, take our Beauty Quiz now to get started. Already an Ipster? Refer your friends to earn points, which you can use toward products. Either way, don’t forget to check us out on Instagram and Twitter @IPSY.

Like this article? Share it with your friends by clicking the icons below!