Sunscreen Pilling Is the Worst! Here’s How to Kick SPF Pilling to the Curb
One of the main reasons we don’t pile endless serums onto our skin is to avoid pilling (aka when skincare products can build up on your skin, creating tiny balls). And when you add a layer of sunscreen on top of whatever skincare you’ve already packed on, you can often see pilling happen. “Pilling can be a super annoying result of incompatibility between products you’re layering or even a particular product and your skin,” says Patricia Boland, VP of research and development at COLORESCIENCE. “This can occur across many different types of formulas including skincare, makeup, and even sunscreen.”
First, you’ll want to be mindful of the sunscreen’s ingredient list and whether you have sensitive skin. Your skin and its reactions to sunscreen can differ from others, but the bottom line holds true: We all need protection from UV rays and sunburn. Even if you’re in New York during the dead of winter, you’re not free from potential sun damage. Additionally, if you apply actives like vitamin C, retinol, or AHA or BHAs before you leave the house, your skin is more prone to irritation from the sun. Therefore, it’s important to get sunscreen pilling under control, because you absolutely can’t avoid SPF. And if dry skin is holding you back, rest assured, many sunscreens these days are formulated with hyaluronic acid and other hydrating ingredients.
Meet the Expert
Patricia Boland is the VP of research and development at COLORESCIENCE.
Sheilagh Maguiness, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist and co-founder of Stryke Club.
What Is Sunscreen Pilling?
When we initially apply product, the expectation is for the formula to spread and absorb evenly into the skin’s surface. But when pilling occurs, “the formulas turn into pesky balls or flakes that just accumulate and get pushed around on our skin,” Boland explains.
Sunscreen in particular is commonly known to pill, according to Sheilagh Maguiness, MD, board-certified dermatologist and co-founder of Stryke Club. “It occurs more frequently when the skin is very dry or conversely very oily,” she says. “In dry skin, the sunscreen tends to sit on the desquamated layer rather than rubbing in smoothly. This creates that pilling appearance. When the skin is quite oily, the sunscreen formula—particularly if water-based—doesn’t mix well with the natural facial oils, and again creates a balled-up, uneven application. It may also have to do with the formulation of the sunscreen itself. I’ve found that mineral sunscreens are more prone to pilling than chemical formulations.”
6 Ways to Avoid Sunscreen Pilling
1. Be Mindful of Skincare Application Order
When you hear about the “correct order” to apply skincare products, there’s a reason behind it. Ultimately, the goal is to prevent pilling and ensure the products effectively sink into the skin.
“Always make sure you’re applying skincare products from thinnest to thickest viscosity,” Boland says. “This means essences and toners go on first since they’re the lightest, followed by fluid-like serums, then lotions and creams. Sunscreen should always be the last step in your skincare routine prior to applying makeup.”
2. Avoid Overapplication
While Boland admits she’s guilty of packing on products, she advises against it. “A heavy application leaves a lot of product on the skin that likely can’t be absorbed,” she explains. “If you’re already following this guidance and you still experience sunscreen pilling, I suggest checking to see if the formulas themselves are compatible for layering. Most emulsions are either oil, water, or silicone-based, and while many are formulated with a combination of these, they don’t always layer well in their more primary forms. This is especially true if there are additional smoothing or film-forming ingredients added for sensory benefits or longevity of wear. Again, this is where balanced formulations and robust testing are important.”
Maguiness agrees, adding, “Try to back off a little and carefully consider only applying what you really need, like moisturizer and sunscreen.”
3. Use Powder Sunscreen
As noted above, oil-based sunscreens don’t typically mesh well with oily skin. That’s where Maguiness says the COLORESCIENCE Sunforgettable Total Protection Brush-On Shield SPF 50 saves the day. “This is a great way to add mineral protection in a powder form, which is less likely to pill,” she says. “It’s also easy to reapply frequently throughout the day, just as you typically would a pressed or loose powder.”
4. Complete the Most Basic Skincare Routine Beforehand
While you definitely don’t want to overapply your skin care, you also don’t want to underapply. “Make sure you use at least a gentle cleanser regularly,” suggests Maguiness. “And if your skin is dry, also applying a moisturizer before your sunscreen can help keep it from pilling. In addition, once-weekly exfoliation with a mild chemical exfoliant can help remove that dead skin at the surface. This helps your moisturizer become more effective and overall reduce surface dryness that can cause pilling.”
5. Pay Attention to the Sunscreen’s Formula
Much like differing skin types, there’s diversity in sunscreen formulas, too. “They can make a difference in the tendency to pill,” Maguiness says. “Try avoiding sunscreens that have a lot of silicone. If you continue to experience pilling from mineral-based sunscreens, try a chemical formula instead.”
6. Take Time Between Skincare Steps
We’re confident when we say everyone has rushed through their skincare routine at some point. In addition to being pressed for time, sometimes we’re simply impatient. That habit, however, is a frequent cause of sunscreen pilling.
“Slow down a bit and allow each product time to absorb or set a little before moving to the next layer,” Boland advises. “Just this exercise will typically help isolate when the pilling is occurring and can narrow down which product is causing the issue. You may have to change the order of application or even reschedule which products you use in your a.m. versus p.m. regimen.”
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