What Is Urea, and Is It Safe to Use in My Hair?
When it comes to scalp care, there are more than a few effective ingredients worth adding to your routine. From apple cider vinegar to tea tree oil to zinc-infused dandruff shampoos, there’s a time and a place for each. One you may be hearing about more lately is urea (also known as carbamide)—although it’s not without its controversy. To find out more about the ingredient, we spoke to Keston Muijs, co-founder of haircare brand Grown Alchemist, to learn what exactly urea is, why it’s garnering so much attention, and why you need to read the fine print. Plus, keep reading for a few editor-approved hair care products with urea to try.
Meet the Expert
Keston Muijs is the co-founder of Grown Alchemist.
Wait, What Is Urea?
Urea, like hyaluronic acid, collagen, and a number of other commonly used beauty ingredients, is naturally found in our bodies. “Urea is a naturally occurring substance found on skin, but also manufactured for use in beauty products,” explains Muijs. “The outermost layer of your skin prevents unwanted substances from entering your body, and along with some other acids, urea is a substance that also stops your skin from losing water.” A powerful humectant, urea is found in some skincare products targeted towards dry skin and even more serious skin conditions like eczema and psoriasis. But its benefits extend to hair as well. “While urea is more commonly found in skincare, it has great benefits for the scalp because of its exfoliating properties,” says Muijs.
What Are the Benefits of Urea for Hair?
In general, urea is beneficial for hair because it’s beneficial to the scalp. From reducing dandruff to hydrating the scalp, here are some of the good-for-you features of the ingredient:
It can reduce dandruff and flaking.
“Formulators often use urea for its exfoliating and microbial properties,” explains Muijs. “Urea exfoliates by breaking down keratin on the outer layer of your skin, and helping remove skin flakes.”
It soothes an itchy scalp.
Itching and flaking often go hand in hand, so luckily urea targets both symptoms at once. “Generally, urea targets dry and itchy skin,” says Muijs.
It hydrates the hair and scalp.
Just like it helps hydrate skin, it’s also great for a dry scalp and dry hair. Plus, a more hydrated scalp can curb excess oil production and promote overall healthier hair.
How to Use Urea for Hair
Because of its scalp-specific benefits, urea is especially effective in shampoos and scalp treatments. “Look for urea in shampoos and hair cleansers to help keep the scalp clear of buildup,” recommends Muijs. It’s generally safe for all hair types, although those experiencing dandruff or even thinning hair may benefit the most from products containing urea. “Urea is great for those experiencing scalp dryness or flakiness, and can also create more volume for fine hair by clarifying the scalp and hairline,” says Muijs.
Okay, But Is Urea Safe?
If you’ve heard controversy about urea, it’s likely because there are three forms of it: hydroxyethyl, diazolidinyl, and imidazolidinyl. When you see simply “urea” listed on an ingredient list, that means it’s hydroxyethyl urea, which is generally accepted as safe to use. The other types are harsher preservatives and are known to release formaldehyde, a carcinogen.
“Urea is a safe and effective ingredient and has made the World Health Organization's list of essential medications,” says Muijs. Otherwise, the only major concern is making sure you don’t have an allergic reaction to the ingredient. “Like all topical ingredients, you should test patch products with urea to make sure you don't experience any stinging or redness,” reminds Muijs.
The Best Hair Products With Urea
1. Best Urea Shampoo:
PROSE Custom Shampoo
All shampoo formulations from PROSE are customized based on your exact hair type and concerns, but if yours focuses on hydration or scalp health, you could very likely end up with urea in your personalized formula.
2. Best Urea Scalp Treatment:
L’ORÉAL PARIS Sulfate-Free Scalp Care + Detox Scrub
Product buildup and flaking are no match for this detoxifying scrub, which lifts out all the gunk to leave hair looking and feeling fresh. In addition to urea, it has apricot seed powder to gently exfoliate, as well as menthol for that clean-feeling tingle.
3. Best Urea Styling Product:
DEVACURL Wash Day Wonder Time Saving Slip Detangler
This silicone-free, in-shower detangler is in a class of its own: Applied after shampoo and before conditioner, it gives hair extra bounce, softness, and smoothness come time for styling.
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