Ampoules Just Might Be the Best Skincare Launch in the History of Korean Beauty
From sheet masks to double cleansing, and, of course, the renowned 10-step Korean skincare routine, there’s a good chance you’re already incorporating some aspect of K-beauty into your daily skincare regimen. This is why it should come as no surprise that there’s an innovative, under-the-radar approach to skincare products from Korea that’s slowly transforming the way we treat our complexion: enter ampoules. These potent, multitasking formulas are something everyone can get behind, as they allow you to take a targeted and effective approach to treating individual skincare issues thanks to a potent serving of active ingredients. “Ampoules are considered to be a more concentrated version of a serum,” says Tamila Deveny, medical esthetician at MDCS Dermatology. “Think of it as a booster shot.”
Meet the Expert
Tamila Deveny is a medical esthetician at MDCS Dermatology in New York City. She has extensive experience with skin treatment and rejuvenation procedures.
Hadley King, MD, FAAD, is a board-certified dermatologist in NYC who specializes in medical and cosmetic dermatology. She is also a clinical instructor of dermatology at the Weill Medical College of Cornell University.
The reason ampoules have been so widely accepted is because they can address a variety of skincare concerns, making it easy to find a formula to treat your skin type. If you have acne-prone skin, dry skin, sensitive skin, or are just looking for a powerful anti-aging ampoule, there’s an option out there for you. Read on to find out why ampoules are so beneficial and find out how to safely incorporate them into your routine.
What is an ampoule?
Good things come in small packages, (at least when ampoules are concerned). “Ampoules are highly concentrated active serums that are designed for one time use,” says Hadley King, MD, FAAD, board-certified dermatologist in NYC. The high concentration of active ingredients is used to restore, correct, or regenerate the skin. “They feature one main active ingredient, and the ampoule form is designed to preserve the pureness and potency of the product,” says Dr. King.
While there isn’t a universal ruling on how much of an ingredient needs to be present to differentiate whether the product is a serum or an ampoule, it’s not uncommon to see ampoules contain a 50% concentration of an active ingredient. Packaged in small tubes and bottles, often with droppers, all it takes is a drop or two of the potent formula to start feeling the difference. And the texture? Pretty cool. You can expect ampoules to feel light and almost slippery, quite like serums—the main difference is in the higher concentration of ingredients.
The packaging of ampoules is also important because it protects active ingredients from light, air, and heat, which could cause them to become ineffective. “Because it's designed for one-time use, the ingredients aren't compromised by exposure to the environment,” says Dr. King. “Serums often incorporate several active ingredients, and they are designed for multiple uses from the same container.”
Different ampoules can address specific skin concerns, so while one can improve fine lines, another can fade dark spots, and another can provide much-needed hydration to combat dryness. Active ingredients, like retinol and vitamin C, are often found in ampoules. An anti-aging ampoule, for example, will often contain a potent dose of retinol. For brightening, an antioxidant-rich ampoule can banish dullness and repair skin cells that have endured free radical damage. For dehydrated skin, hyaluronic acid and ceramides are moisturizing, all while plumping up your complexion.
Interested in trying ampoules? They could be your favorite new at-home fixes for your skincare concerns—they deliver prescription-grade results without any downtime, nor the need to visit your dermatologist’s office (which is especially appreciated in today’s climate). “Ampoules have become more popular because of an increased interest in active ingredients and their potency, and also because the customizable aspect is a popular trend,” says Dr. King. Now that you’re caught up on what ampoules are, let’s dive into how they’re used.
How to use ampoules
If you’re ready to incorporate these potent skincare concoctions into your beauty routine, it’s best to apply them after cleansing and toning. “After cleanser and optional toner and essence, apply the ampoule,” says Dr. King.
By applying the ampoule first before anything else, you’re allowing the potent ingredients to get absorbed by your complexion before you apply moisturizer. “Ampoules are meant for single use on your entire face,” says Deveny. While you can apply hydrating and brightening ampoules during your morning routine, any anti-aging or acne-fighting ampoules are best incorporated during your evening skincare routine. Since some active ingredients can make your skin more sensitive to the sun’s UV rays and environmental stressors, it’s important to wear sunscreen every day, especially when incorporating ampoules into your routine.
How often to use ampoules
While serums are suited for daily use, since ampoules are highly concentrated, they are best used for a small amount of time to help or treat a specific skin care concern and should not be used on a daily basis. “You can use ampoules every other day or on a weekly basis,” says Deveny, who also advises clients to incorporate ampoules into their routine whenever their complexion could use a little TLC. “You can use ampoules before a big event or after recovering from any cosmetic treatment or skin crisis,” she adds.
Ampoules can be especially beneficial after a long flight, when your skin can use some major moisture, or to prep for a major event when you want your complexion to look its best. Whether you're hoping to hydrate or boost collagen production, there's an ampoule that can serve up exactly what your skin needs.
Korean beauty products often go beyond the latest skincare trends to fill voids in the marketplace, and in our current socially-distanced reality, being able to serve up exactly what your skin needs in the comfort of your own home is key. That’s why ampoules are such a welcome addition to our beauty shelf.
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