Is Cica the Secret to a Stronger Skin Barrier? Learn All About the Skincare Ingredient Here
Cica is one of those skincare ingredients that seemed to pop up in everything overnight. And while it may seem like the ingredient is relatively new, this powerhouse has a long history rooted in traditional Chinese medicine, where it’s been used for centuries. Not to mention, there have been decades of studies that have shown the benefits of cica for the skin. Korean skincare especially led the charge in producing cica cream for all skin types, but especially for those with sensitive skin.
Even if cica sounds like a new ingredient to you, there’s a chance you may already be familiar with it—does the DR.JART+ Cicapair™ collection ring a bell? The Tiger Grass Color Correcting Treatment is popular for easily covering redness and irritation. Dozens of additional skincare brands, including those in K-Beauty, have created their creams and moisturizers using centella asiatica extract—and for good reason. The skincare ingredient has been shown to calm the skin and repair the skin barrier, meaning it’s not just great for those with sensitive skin but can also be used as part of a larger skincare routine for all skin types. To figure out exactly what cica is and what cica skincare options we need to try, we chatted with the experts to learn more.
Meet the Expert
S. Mark McKenna, MD, is the founder and chief medical officer of OVME AESTHETICS.
Evelyn Lee is a skincare expert and the founder of DR. ALTHEA.
So, What Is Cica?
Cica (a.k.a. centella asiatica) is an herb native to Southeast Asia and the Pacific and “has been used medicinally since ancient times,” shares Evelyn Lee, founder of DR. ALTHEA. She notes that “it has been known to promote blood circulation, help metabolism, and keep the body healthy by allowing blood to flow without obstruction.”
Because of its anti-inflammatory properties, it has been known to treat inflammation caused by insect bites, itching, eczema, and more. S. Mark McKenna, MD, founder of OVME AESTHETICS, notes, “Cica skincare is great for conditions such as eczema, psoriasis, scarring, and cellulite, and is incredibly moisturizing.” That’s because cica contains madecassoside, a compound that has been clinically shown to minimize the harmful effects of free radicals.
While cica is best for those with sensitive and irritated skin, everyone can benefit from using the ingredient in their skincare routine. Both experts stress that you should consult with a dermatologist beforehand. However, if you do want to test them out yourself, always do a spot test. “Spot testing the product on the inner forearm prior to use on the face is recommended and best practice,” adds Dr. McKenna.
6 Ways Cica Benefits the Skin
1. It Soothes Inflammation
Your skin goes through it. Between the active ingredients you put on it regularly and all the environmental stressors it deals with daily, it’s incredibly easy for your complexion to become inflamed and red. That’s where cica’s soothing properties come in to save your skin. “An ingredient in cica called asiaticoisde adds self-renewal to the skin to keep it healthy, reduces skin irritation, improves elasticity, helps maintain firm skin, and has antioxidant properties that make the skin flexible and smooth,” says Lee.
2. It Strengthens the Skin Barrier
Apart from being anti-inflammatory, cica is also anticancer and antibacterial. This is because cica contains saponin and beta-sitosterol, which help support the skin barrier function. Lee notes that by “suppressing bacteria and strengthening the immune system, cica promotes healthy skin.”
3. It Boosts Hydration & Moisture Retention
The ingredient beta-sitosterol that is in cica is “a type of pro-vitamin D,” Lee shares. Because of this ingredient, cica helps hydrate the skin and boost moisture retention. It can even promote collagen production and prevent skin cancer.
4. It Offers Anti-Aging Benefits
Elasticity and firmness are benefits of cica thanks to asiaticoisde. Additionally, antioxidants in cica can help improve the appearance of wrinkles, fine lines, and age spots. It works by protecting the skin against free radicals and external sources of skin damage, such as environmental stress like pollution.
5. It Can Minimize Breakouts
Those with acne-prone skin will be happy to know that cica can help minimize blemishes and redness caused by breakouts because of its anti-inflammatory properties. “For individuals who suffer from blemish-prone skin, cica can help promote wound healing and decrease scarring,” says Dr. McKenna.
6. It Helps Brighten the Skin
You know vitamin C can help brighten skin, but did you know cica actually contains vitamin C on its own? It’s also full of amino acids, beta-carotene, fatty acids, and vitamins C, A, B1, and B.
Incorporating Cica Into Your Skincare Routine
Cica blends well into most skincare routines. While its healing properties will benefit those who are struggling with inflamed, irritated skin or a weakened skin barrier, everyone can benefit from using beauty products with the ingredient in them. There’s no right way to use cica, as it can be an ingredient in cleansers, toners, moisturizers, and more. Lee does have a suggested routine if you’re looking for somewhere to start.
“I recommend using the DR. ALTHEA Pure Grinding Cleansing Balm followed by our Vitamin C Boosting Serum. Finish with our 345 Relief Cream. Use the Oasis Soothing Mask for some days that need extra hydration and healing,” she suggests.
Mixing Cica With Other Skincare Ingredients
You may be nervous about mixing cica with other skincare ingredients but the truth is, you don’t have much to worry about. Lee shares that “cica pairs well with most ingredients, including hyaluronic acid, niacinamide, and vitamin C, as they can boost the effects of cica.”
She does note that “it is not recommended to use [cica] with retinol and high-content extract ingredients” because this can lead to further irritation and dryness. However, Lee does share that they may work together in small doses, it ultimately depends on your skin type. She also does not recommend “using cica when using strong exfoliating acids like AHAs or BHAs” for the same reason.
The Best Skincare Products With Cica
1. Best Cica Toner: UNPA Lacto Cica Soothing Toner
After cleansing, use this toner to help balance, resurface, firm, and soothe your skin. Along with cica, the toner features the ingredient laminin, which helps stimulate collagen and ceramide production to help make your skin stronger and more resilient.
2. Best Cica Cleanser for Acne-Prone Skin: BRTC Cica Biome Blackhead Cleansing Foam
Keep your oily skin in check with this cleanser formulated with herbal essences that help deep clean, brighten, and pH balance your skin. Your pores will feel refreshed without feeling stripped.
3. Best Hydrating Cica Serum: SKIN1004 Madagascar Centella Hyalu-Cica First Ampoule
Need an extra boost of moisture in your skincare routine? Add this serum. Featuring a unique complex made from hyaluronic acid and cica, it provides nourishing hydration while restoring the skin barrier. We love that it helps our skin better absorb additional products we use in our skincare routine.
4. Best Cica Cleanser to Remove Makeup: ELEMIS Superfood Cica Calm Cleansing Foam
Gently wash away makeup, dirt, and grime with this foaming cleanser. Formulated with prebiotics, agave, rice water, green tea seed oil, natural olive, and mango, it cleanses the skin without drying it out and provides nutrients too.
5. Best Cica Sheet Mask: E NATURE Cica Herb Restore and Squeeze Green Watery Sheet Mask Duo
When you need to quickly calm redness and irritation, pop on the cica sheet mask and watch the inflammation subside in as little as 20 minutes.
6. Best Cica-Infused Primer: ELEMIS Superfood CICA Calm Hydration Juice
We love the cooling effects of this gel moisturizer but also love that the formulation works as a sort of primer before we apply our makeup. It evens out any imperfections in our skin texture to ensure we have a smooth base to start with.
7. Best Cica Sunscreen: SUNTIQUE I'm Pure Perfect Cica Suncream
Cica can even be found in some stellar sunscreens, such as this hydrating SPF. The non-greasy lotion contains titanium dioxide and zinc oxide to protect the skin from harmful UVA and UVB rays, and it also has a matte finish that sits beautifully under makeup.
8. Best Calming Moisturizer With Cica: MZ SKIN Calming Moisturizer
Soothing plant extracts and a skin barrier-strengthening prebiotic work overtime to protect your skin from everyday environmental aggressors and leave your skin feeling as nourished as ever.